visitskye

The ETA -what you need to know when coming to (or through) the UK

January 29, 2025 by katie 2 Comments

A new e-document is now required to enter the UK from countries outside Europe. This will be extended to all international travellers from April 2nd of this year. It includes landside transit passengers –but not airside transit passengers.

If you’re not sure if you need one or not you can check here

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/check-when-you-can-get-an-electronic-travel-authorisation-eta

Then the government website will take you through what you have to do. If you’re staying with us and you’re having any problems just drop me an email at katieheron1@icloud.com and we’ll see if we can work through it together. It is indeed a vexing piece of red tape but we won’t let it spoil your holiday.

So here are some lovely pictures of the area around our little hotel to remind you why it’s worth a bit more effort to sort it all out.

In search of your heritage – family, clans, tartan and all that.

January 20, 2025 by katie 3 Comments

Many of our guests have a primary or secondary agenda when coming to Skye; to explore their family heritage. It’s a sensitive topic so I’m not going to address the ‘are you Scottish?’ question here. but I am going to offer suggestions as to how to go about getting the most out of your visit if it’s family you’re looking for.

Before you come: do as much reading as you can. General Highland history, biographies of anyone in your family’s past who might have been noteworthy, books about castles, clearances, clans and chiefs. It will definitely broaden your knowledge and possibly dispel some tales your granny told you. If you have evidence like birth certificates, emigration documents and the like, pack them. Make an appointment to visit the Skye & Lochalsh Archive Centre in Portree. If it’s family who left Skye within living memory then join the Skye & Lochalsh Memories facebook group and see if anyone can fill in missing details for you.

People outwith Scotland often ask on travel forums about kilts and whether they should wear theirs. I’m very much in the wear what you want camp but there’s a few things to bear in mind.

Most Scottish people wear kilts at weddings, other ceilidh events and to the football/rugby (with a team shirt and boots). It’s possible you might get mistaken for a Rabbies’ tour guide in your kilt but take it on the chin and you’ll be grand.
There is a correct length to wear your kilt.
There are lots of surnames without tartans whatever the tartan selling websites will tell you.
If you’re going to buy a good quality kilt you will have to spend. There are outfitters in Inverness, I suggest you visit two or three to see which you prefer if you’re buying ‘off the peg’. The staff in the ones we have visited are, without exception, incredibly helpful.
If you want a bespoke kilt, (or other beautiful tartan creations), we recommend the incredible Leona aka Kiltquine, based in Carbost. You’ll need to make appointments and chat to her beforehand but the end result will be something to last a lifetime. Check out her work on Facebook and Instagram.

The word clan comes from the Gaelic word for children (clann). This was the main system of government in Scotland from the 12th century to the crushing of the Jacobite rebellion in 1746 and the proceeding years. The best book I have read on this topic is The Highland Clans by Alistair Moffat. I’m looking forward to reading his following book – War Paths. If you’re looking to understand the big picture of family history this would be a good place to start.

By far the majority of guests who come to stay with us looking for family are linked to the MacDonalds or the MacLeods. The history between these clans is brutal and violent. The recently named Fairy Pools was known as Coire na Creiche – Corry (hollow) of the spoils.

This refers to a battle between the MacLeods and MacDonalds where the rivers reportedly ran red with blood and tartan. If you’re in Skye and you get a chance to hear the super knowledgeable Catherine McPhee of the archive centre speak, 100% take it. The key word here is history – while everyone is aware of the sins of the fathers the current generations are just fine together.

The MacLeods.

If your family links are Macleod you should start your Skye journey at Dunvegan Castle, home of Hugh Magnus Macleod of MacLeod. Apart from the stunning gardens and imposing building inside are some notable heirlooms of the clan. The most important (I would say) is Am Bratach Sith, the Fairy Flag but there is also a medieval drinking cup and Rory Mor’s horn.

With careful planning you can meet up with hundreds of Clan MacLeods at the Gathering and Parliament. The next one is the first week of August 2026 and there is one every 4 years. There is a great gift shop and clanmacleod.org has an excellent selection of books and other merchandise.

A tragic place, Trumpan Church is where the MacLeods, performing their act of Sunday worship, were burned to death by Uist MacDonalds intent on revenge for the murder of their clansmen on Eigg. It’s a beautiful place for a walk, regardless of your reason for being there. The views across to the Outer Isles can be spectacular.

If you’re feeling energetic talk a walk up to Macleod’s Tables (Macleod’s Tables (Walkhighlands) Stunning views, great folklore and the prospect of a good meal in Dunvegan on your return.

The MacDonalds.

Armadale Castle in the south of the island should be your starting point if you’re looking for Clan Donald family history. Although the castle is no more than a small ruin it’s easy to stand on the lawn and imagine the original building coming under attack in 1690 from HMS Dumbarton in an attempt to make Sir Donald Macdonald of Sleat submit to the new government. There’s a great little museum in the grounds and the gardens are absolutely wonderful, reflecting Scottish aristocracy’s travels across the world and their curiosity about the flora of other continents. There is a café and an excellent gift shop.

We would recommend treating yourself to a meal at Kinloch Lodge, the home of Godfrey, Lord Macdonald of Macdonald, the 35th High Chief of Clan Donald and his wife Lady Clare. The hotel is now run by the fabulous Isabella and I can confidently say that the Sunday lunch is quite the best (and the best value) I have ever had. You’ll eat your meal under the distinctly disapproving gaze of MacDonalds down the ages whose portraits adorn the walls.

You then need to head North to Duntulm Castle which was the home of the MacDonalds until 1732. If you believe in ghosts then it’s worth looking into the stories about the castle. If not it’s worth the walk for the stunning views. Then head round to visit the grave of one of the most famous MacDonalds of all – Flora. I can recommend the book Pretty Young Rebel by Flora Fraser as a way to learn about this remarkable woman and her life. Her final resting place is in Kilmuir Cemetery in Hungladder – also the burial place of the MacArthurs, pipers for the MacDonalds of Duntulm.

So, whether you’re looking for direct family, distant ancestors or a period of history that has caught your imagination tread gently on the history, listen to the stories, educate yourself before you come and while you’re here. Listen to the people who know, be ready for the kilt banter. Accept that your definition of being ‘Scottish’ might not be same as someone else’s. You’ll find the most welcoming, helpful people you would ever want to meet and you’ll find it difficult to leave.

My father, Glaswegian Gavin Lambie, in 1918, sitting on a fake log in a sou’wester with, rather alarmingly, a shotgun.

Forget your troubles, c’mon get happy…

November 27, 2024 by katie 1 Comment

I’ve been anxious since I could think. If you’ve stayed with us, you almost certainly didn’t notice as I glide through breakfast like Margot Fonteyn in Converse. Yet I was an anxious child, an anxious teen, an anxious, diagnosed but untreated ADHD 20 something etc etc etc. So maybe, (you might think) hospitality is not the best choice for me at the butt-end of my 50s.

But oh how I love how the young people are accepting and understanding of their slayDHD, how people are talking about their worries, depression, neurodivergences… and it’s helped me understand how being me makes me ‘good at hospitality’ in some ways. I asked some of my anxious friends what they thought. Here’s part of our dialogue:

Martin: You tend to have thought of everything way before time if you are a worry type of person. This means you also usually have a plan B (and maybe even C and D) up your sleeve in case of either emergencies or changes of plan, because you have usually thought it to the nth degree.

Jennie: Guests generally get a great experience because you have thought of every detail so much xxx

Me: so long as you don’t actually walk into the door while carrying a pile of plates because your brain is thinking of 7 possibilities and ain’t got no time for coordinating. Hypothetically of course

Catherine: It’s conducive for great list making which as a typical Virgo I do of course wholeheartedly embrace.

I can confirm this. I have many many notebooks. Some even used halfway through…

Laura: The most positive example I can offer is that reality is invariably never ever as bad as the 4276 horrific scenarios you’ve played out in your head…….Most of all, please know that all of your feelings are valid and completely normal. Lots of love from your fellow worrywart.

I can also confirm this. When Covid came I went into automatic coping strategy, us anxious people had been ready for this all our lives.

Anxiety and over thinking can lead to clumsiness; always known (sometimes affectionately) as ‘One Plate Kate’ I never take risks carrying breakfast dishes recklessly. This leads to me clocking up my 10,000 steps over breakfast. It does also lead to mishaps. Here’s a picture of me at the Fairy Pools approximately 10 seconds before Johnny said ‘watch where you’re putting your feet’, I forgot what feet are supposed to do, let alone where I was supposed to be putting mine, and promptly fell over. It happens quite a bit, I’m used to it but it does alarm other people.

In my conversations with myself in the early hours I make decisions in answer to questions like ‘but what if this little guest is in the middle of toilet training while on holiday and loses a week of progress?’. Thank goodness one can order from Amazon at 3am.

Or ‘ I don’t like how many additives there are in brown sauce, I wonder if I can make my own’. Turns out you can. Next stop Nutella…

It means that after a couple of guests commented that the shower/loo pump in one of the rooms had begun to make a disturbance I ‘persuaded’ Johnny and Gary to completely reorganise the drainage so it didn’t do that any more (and I could sleep through the night without keeping one ear open for late night flushes). And it needed to be done straight away when we closed. Weather? What weather?

So actually me being me means I enjoy what I do so very much. And our reviews tell you that our guests love staying with us too. Also very much. Check us out on Google.

I’m currently researching books about MacDonalds and MacLeods to put in our rooms, looking at recipes for breakfast shots (like turmeric & ginger, not like vodka or tequila my friends) and getting VERY picky about 3d wallpaper which may or may not send my hugely tolerant and understanding husband over the edge.

Kermit doesn’t find it that easy being green, but green he is, and being green is one of the things that makes him Kermit. I feel the same about being anxious, now I just need to write a song for my anxious buddies and the people who live with us. You’re not alone.

A pre trip reading list. Suggestions Part2 – Scottish history.

April 19, 2024 by katie Leave a Comment

The history of Scotland is hugely complex and threads into the present like a trendy crochet pattern. It is impossible to cover even the key events in our past in a book selection so I have just picked three that I have read, enjoyed and learned from. If you have any suggestions of others for me that would be amazing, just leave them in the comments.

Before Scotland: a Prehistory. I read this on my Kindle and it really kept my attention. I’m not very good at Kindle reading and tend to abandon books a way through but this one is different. It’s really well written and includes geological as well as human history. It didn’t feel like a history book if that makes sense.

I hadn’t really thought about prehistory since primary school until we went to Skara Brae in Orkney last year. It’s a stunning site but the thing that still stays with me was the stone dressers in the dwellings where people would display their precious things. It was this that prompted me to read Alistair Moffat’s book – to give me some context on such universal house decorating. There’s also wider information on world events happening concurrently with Scotland (or what would become Scotland)’s development.

On the blurb of the cover of The Scottish Enlightenment by Arthur Herman Irvine Welsh says Every Scot should read it. Scotland now has the lively, provocative and positive history it deserves.

He’s not wrong (he seldom is). My copy has a very dense text and I still hoovered it up. Herman’s writing is really clear and he deals with complex political and cultural issues in a very readable way. I first heard about ‘the Scottish miracle’ in an exceptionally inaccessible podcast about economics. It interested me enough to find this book and I’m so glad I did. You need to commit chunks of time to reading it, it’s not a dipper. It gives context for those abroad with Scottish heritage, so if you’re coming here to feel closer to your family roots then this is definitely the book for you.

It’s a book written from a certain premise but Herman backs up his ideas with impressive evidence. 100% recommend.

D*mn Rebel B*tches (careful asterisks just in case) by Maggie Craig is a fantastic book. Focussing on the stories of the women caught up in the events of ’45-46. The author uses letters and original papers to bring to life a largely undocumented area of a very well documented time. It has all sorts of details in that were totally new to me and I really enjoyed Maggie Craig’s style. She also writes fiction so her writing flows beautifully and keeps you engaged throughout. Again this book is not a dipper – the chapters aren’t in a linear order so you need to concentrate. A reminder that it’s not just about Flora Macdonald, but those whose names have been left aside, those who have become nameless and those who should have had their names in all the books about this time. As an aside, the book does assume that you already have some knowledge about the rebellion, so come to it after maybe reading Jacqueline Riding’s excellent Jacobites: a new history of the ’45 rebellion.

There are some terrible books out there – I won’t name and shame them here but you’ll work out which they are quite quickly. Just comment if you’d like me to give you a low down! Historians write the best history books, just saying :)

Visiting the Fairy Pools.

February 21, 2024 by katie 3 Comments

The Fairy Pools…on a lot of people’s bucket lists (a term I’m not very keen on, but hey ho) and one of the most photographed places in Scotland. So, is it worth going? Will you be surrounded by other people? Will you be disappointed? Let your Aunt Katie give you the low down.

Basics: The Fairy Pools are situated on the road to Glen Brittle about 8 miles away from the Taigh Ailean Hotel. They are a series of waterfalls and pools in the foothills of the Cuillin. In recent years a car park, toilets and a bridge over the first river crossing have been added to cater for the increase in visitors and make at least the first part of the walk accessible.

Getting the most out of your day. The Fairy Pools are very popular with visitors – so we recommend our guests get there as early as possible. Some opt for an early, light breakfast (we offer tea, toast, cereal etc as early as you wish – served by a cheery, maybe bleary, me), some take a packed lunch, some head off with the sunrise and are back for a full Scottish by 8:30. The days are long in summer so an early start means early. Another option is to visit at the end of your day, after dinner at the Old Inn maybe.

Parking. Currently the charge is £6 which can be paid card or cash. This might seem a lot but it goes towards the upkeep and development of the area. You absolutely do not want to know what parts of the trail was like before the public loos were put in. Some of the proceeds also go to supporting the Minginsh community – subsidising senior citizen lunch club, helping people who are struggling to buy food etc. So, just by parking you are part of something important – thankyou.

You’ll need a basic level of fitness. My fitness is pretty basic and I can do the whole walk. But I am shattered at the end and the slope back up to the car park is almost enough to end me. The dog used to be able to manage but it’s too much for his chunky, stumpy 12 year old self now so we just do the first part. The walk is dog friendly but if they’re divers or ‘close to the edgers’ you should probably keep them on a lead.

Quite a lot of people “do” the Fairy Pools as part of a day whizz about Skye. You’ll see a lot of people taking photographs of the first couple of pools then hotfooting it back to their tour bus to zoom off to do the same thing at Sligachan Bridge. If that’s all you have time for then make sure you get the best pictures! You’ll find the further you walk along the path the less people you see. The full circular walk is 5 miles, fairly easy although quite boggy in places. If you have two cars you could park one at Sligachan Hotel, drive you all round to the Fairy Pools then walk back across to the pub rather than complete the circular walk. It’s rather uneven at times so good walking shoes/boots are important. I have seen people in flip flops or wellies but that’s just asking for a twisted ankle or worse. The clearest guidance for the walk can be found at Fairy Pools and Coire na Creiche (Walkhighlands) Obviously you can just set off and turn back whenever time or fitness requires.

It can be midgetastic so take your Smidge with you. Midges are rubbish insects really. They don’t like wind, heat, cold or rain. But they do love a damp, warm morning or evening and a bit of standing water. They’re usually about from late April to mid September so be prepared.

The pools are a popular spot for wild swimming (what we used to call swimming in the old days). The environmental issues associated with this are for another day I think. The waters are gloriously clear, astonishingly cold and highly instagrammable. But they can also be tragically dangerous so ….. well ….. be sensible. Make sure you have towels and warm clothes ready and maybe a flask of something hot because the mountain waters will chill you to the core. I’d also suggest you have your costume/trunks on before you set off as there aren’t really any changing rocks for your modesty.

So, to sum up. The Fairy Pools are beautiful and worth a visit – but plan your day carefully to get the best experience. Wear the right clothes and bring the right accessories. Are there other places in Skye just as lovely if not more so? With quieter swimming spots and splendid views? Absolutely – I’ll tell you about them at breakfast.

The TA Guide to Scottish Bank Notes

June 28, 2023 by katie 3 Comments

The two best things about a Scottish £5 note are that a) you can buy a quiche and two cheese scones from Elanor’s honesty porch and b) they can go through the wash repeated times, be tumble dried scrunched up in a pocket and still spring out, perfectly smooth and ready to be popped into a tip box.

I recently wrote a Facebook post about Scottish money in the hope that it might help clarify confusions. Some people are so confidently wrong about things it takes your breath away.

Anyway, lots of people read it and said that it was useful so I thought I’d pop it up here. I will add an edit onto the end of the piece with information that people added or asked about that I didn’t think to include – the hive mind is a great thing.

So my lovely friends. There’s been a lot of confusion in the world of the internet about money in Scotland. Let me try to help in a few easy to understand steps.

• Scotland uses pounds sterling (£) like the rest of the UK

• Notes issued in Scotland look different from those issued in England.

• English notes are accepted in Scotland provided they are in current circulation.

• All Scottish notes have a shiny, plastic finish. Any papery notes are out of date. You MIGHT be able to exchange them in a bank but they may well refuse them unless you bank with them.

• You might have trouble using Scottish notes in England (particularly the South). They are uk currency but this does not mean any retailer HAS to accept them. You can swap Scottish notes for English notes at a bank.

• There is a £100 note. This may not be accepted by smaller shops. Again they don’t HAVE to accept your money so maybe split it at a bank if you have one.

As an aside tipping in cash is appreciated (a post on tipping is coming soon). Paying in cash is always appreciated (unless a place asks specifically for cards) by small businesses as it really helps us avoid significant fees from card suppliers.

EDITS:

American chums apparently you have to beware as some US banks are trying to slip you the old papery notes. Do not accept these. Also have a firm word with them.

£1 notes: there are still some of these in circulation. Again they are UK currency but you might find they are not accepted so I’d swap them in a bank if you get them.

Some ATMS charge to withdraw cash, some don’t. If you say a sign saying FREE CASH in huge letters and ‘withdrawals’ in tiny letters that means you’re safe. But you absolutely need to check what your bank is charging. Mine is wonderful and doesn’t charge me to use an ATM in another country, other contributors suggested a REVOLUT card, I’m not going to recommend it because I have no personal experience but you might want to check it out.

Post Offices will change your money and accept out of date currency but don’t expect the amazing Eve in the dinky Carbost PO to have a grand in Scottish crispies handy to exchange for you.

Danske Bank notes from Northen Ireland are also UK currency. They look very ‘foreign’ (as it were) and you might need to be prepared to explain what they are. Again I’d recommend a swap at a bank in order to save yourself any trouble and not fluster your wait staff.

Some retail outlets and places to eat do not accept cash at all now. So definitely have a card in your wallet. If you use Amex bring it with you. More places than you think accept it and, let’s face it, it doesn’t take up any room.

In conclusion (like a proper year 10 essay), check your money before you set off, have a debit/credit card that you know works in the UK and have a brilliant time. Buying local is absolutely best, tipping in cash too (another post on tipping is brewing in my mind right this minute). You can be utterly spendalicious in Scotland or work to a strict budget and still have the best time. Fine dining at Edinbane Lodge or a swift pizza in Caberfeidh, glorious jewellery from Love from Skye or a Highland Cow fridge magnet from Tippicanoe – all memories to be treasured once you’re home.

Adventures on The Misty Isle Boat Trip

April 24, 2023 by katie 2 Comments

This week the intrepid trio set off to Elgol to take a trip we’ve wanted to do for ages. Adrian at All Things Cuillin sings the praises of Seamus and his crew and we wanted to see for ourselves. We were super lucky with the weather which did help but I can see how this would be a great day out even in mizzly conditions.

Elgol is about 1 1/2 hours drive for someone who doesn’t know the roads. When you leave the main road through Broadford there are stretches of singles track, some interesting bends in the road and some impressive potholes. But with care and a couple of deep breaths you can get there and it is 100% worth it, even if you don’t take the boat trip. You go through Torrin where the fabulous Amy’s Place café can stock you up with cakes, gifts and great coffee, and when you get to Elgol there is a bistro (check openings and make sure you book) a great shop with snacks and a seafood truck. We can definitely recommend the Elgolian, a squat lobster buttie with delicious Marie Rose sauce.

Once on the boat Seamus tells you tales of the island; how the Cuillin got their name, the origin of Drambuie, the derring do of Charles Edward Stuart and Flora MacDonald.

The scenery is stunning and you get a unique view of the Cuillin and the Small Isles.

The whole trip is dog friendly and if your dog has little legs then they can be carried, like Bonnie Prince Sausage himself, up the steps at the landing point at Loch Coruisk.

You can opt to stay longer than the 1 hour 30 minutes and catch a later boat back to Elgol. But be aware that this is a location in the heart of the Cuillin. While there is no climbing necessary to get about the loch, there is uneven terrain, stepping stones, some impressive boggy bits (the dog could tell you all about that) and some slopey negotiations.

So a basic level of fitness and some proper walking shoes or boots are a must. I’ll say the bit about the footwear again. Wear something sturdy and supportive. Really. The area just where the boat drops off gives beautiful views, so if you don’t fancy a hike it’s lovely just to sit about and look at the sea.

Loch Coruisk is stunning. The Gaelic Coire Uisg means cauldron of waters and this long, narrow freshwater lake was glowing the most ridiculous shade of blue on our visit.

Be aware there are lots of standing lochans so take your Smidge if you go any time past May. You really feel like you’re in amongst the mountains, not comprehending how huge they are til a couple ahead of you provide a scale. The gabbro rock is grippy which does help a lot. We walked for about two miles then turned about when 3 pairs of little legs started to tire.

On the way back we were made a great cup of tea accompanied by tasty shortbread. We saw a lovely herd of seals, sunbathing like contented grey bananas but we were too early in the season to be treated to dolphins, sea eagles or even whales. We will have to go again.

You can also walk to Loch Coruisk, a challenging hike where you have to deal with the Bad Step (clue’s in the name people). You’ll need someone else to tell you about that tho.

Thanks to all at Misty Isle Boat Trips. We highly recommend you book as far in advance as you can.

Home – Misty Isle Boat Trips

Sealladh Na Mara, Elgol, Isle Of Skye

01471 866288

Being in Skye, not on Skye. How our wonderful island helps foster our mental health.

February 9, 2023 by katie 2 Comments

I’ve covered tick box tourism in a previous blog, and I do understand that the day trip to Skye works for some people, but I’ve been thinking a lot about a question someone asked me a while back.

Why do you always write IN Skye, not ON Skye, what’s the difference? Well first of all, here’s the technical explanation.

We use “on the island” when we refer to it as a piece of land surrounded by water.

We use “in the island” when we refer to it as a territory or place with its own settings, circumstances, environment, etc.

When you stay with us you are part of Skye life. And it’s good for you. Visit Scotland took a survey about emotional wellbeing and travel. The findings are extensive (www.visitscotland.org/binaries/content/assets/dot-org/pdf/research-papers/about-our-visitors/insights-emotional-benefits.pdf)

I’ve taken a few things from it which can be connected to being in Skye.

After the pandemic many people (and I absolutely count myself in this category) are more anxious, more concerned for the future, and feeling directionless. The current crises in the world have only compounded this. So those of us lucky enough to travel are looking for certain things to support us. I have chosen 3 from the list that I think staying with us and being in Skye can connect with.

Looking for a challenge: whether you’re an experienced climber taking on the Cuillin, a family booked in with Skye Adventure for an afternoon canyoning or a wee middle aged woman with short legs and dubious fitness making her way up Brothers’ Point (guess which one is my challenge?) there’s absolutely something to take you that little bit further.

Opportunities for awe: from sunrises to sunsets, island views to tiny flowers, dolphins, sea eagles, otters or those tiny furry caterpillars so intent on their scurrying journey, there’s always something to make you pause. And pausing is good for the soul.

Boosts confidence: Visit Scotland’s report suggests the act f indulging in travel can be an empowering act of self care. This is rather a fancy way of saying that travel helps you live in the moment and that is good for you. Trying new foods, speaking to people who live in Skye, having a pop at the Gaelic pronunciation or trying out your Duolingo skills, going to music sessions, just being in a new place. It’ll help you be more you.

These last few years have really taken it out of us all. Let us help you fill your little cup right up.

+44 (0)1478 640271