visitscotland

‘This is my home, this is my soup’ – in praise of simple things.

February 24, 2026 by katie Leave a Comment

If you’ve had a long drive to get to us, or if you’ve had a big day adventuring before you check in, or if you just want to put your ‘jamas on as you settle into your bedroom then you’re the reason we decided last year to offer soup and sandwiches on the day of your arrival. Available in the sitting room, the dining room or in your bedroom. This photo was taken by one of our guests.

All the soup is homemade, gluten free and vegan. It’s extra tasty because of all the fresh ingredients roasted in it.

The bread is thick and fresh and the fillings have been thought through carefully (you get to choose from a wide range). Here’s the hammy ham just out of the oven.

It’s absolutely not fancy but it’s just the ticket. As one of our guests said “soup is the welcoming food. You open your door and say ‘here is my home, here is my soup'”. I like that very much.

Inverness – city of dreams?

December 2, 2025 by katie Leave a Comment

A lot of our guests arrive with us from Inverness or perhaps it’s the next destination on their travels. I have the feeling that quite a few of them are disappointed with their stay in the Big City so I decided to pop a few ideas down here to help with planning (as you know I love a plan).

The city is a great launch pad for exploring the Highlands – even as far as Skye (tho in my opinion the 6 hour round trip should only be considered if you’re really short of time and really want to see Skye’s Greatest Hits. If this is you, and you can budget for it, then an organised tour is probably best). But what to do when you’re actually in Inverness?

Places to stay. There are a huge variety of places to stay from swanky apartments to little houses tucked into slightly dodgy streets behind the co-op, from cosy bed and breakfasts to chain hotels. Places we have stayed and enjoyed include Druid House Bed & Breakfast (delightful host, great breakfast), River Ness self catering apartments (stunning views of the river, quite swanky) and (out of the main tourist season) the AC Marriot. As an aside the Marriot is dog friendly and has a great bar area with fabby, good value snacks (pictured) and banging Negronis if that’s your bag. Also if the weather is nice you can sit outside by the river.

Wandering about:

We are very excited that the castle is due to open next year. Our first selfie as Highland residents (now lost in the midst of digital cobwebs) was in front of the castle, covered in scaffolding, in 2014. It looks like it’s going to be absolutely beautiful inside and out with stunning views of the Ness from the gardens and an interior rooted in tradition and local culture while also looking forward to a Highland area with real future potential.

Walking along the river at dusk is an absolute joy. There are sparkly lights, food trucks and a general buzzy vibe.

The city itself is a little unremarkable but if you’re a fan of strange graffiti (is it just me?) life will be good.

There are some very lovely independent shops that are worth looking out for. We love

Judith Glue – Scottish crafts and clothes. The main shop is in Kirkwall Orkney but this one is cute if very spendy.

Isle of Skye Candle Company – you’ll probably have done all your candle shopping in the Portree branch of this store while waiting for your amazing Gasta pizza, but one can never have too many candles, right?

Leakey’s bookshop – situated in a deconsecrated Gaelic church, this ultimately instagramable second hand book shop is the largest in Scotland. If they were serious about cosy they’d have seats in the corners but it’s still rather lovely to have an open fire.

The Highland Whisky Shop – a family owned, exceptionally well stocked shop. The staff are super helpful and they often have special events.

Rebel Row: Prickly Thistle – ethical, sustainable clothing for women, made by women. The clothes are quite out there – but why not? Check their website for events.

Inverness Coffee Roasting Co. – amazing coffee to drink and buy. Always our first stop for an expresso to start up the shopping experience.

If you’re looking for highland dress, kilt hire, a bespoke kilt making service (when our own KiltQuine Leona is booked up obviously) then head to Highland House of Fraser . They’re really kind and patient and will answer all your questions and make sure your kilt is at the right length. You can also pop into the Scottish Kiltmaker visitor centre where you can learn about the history of tartans and see craftsfolk in action.

Known as the ‘Saville Row of Highland Dress’ Chisholms Highland Dress is an excellent destination for kilthire and custom made kilts. They do prefer appointments so check their website.

Let’s just take a minute to admire my kilt shall we? (made by Leona)

The Victorian Market – with over 30 wee businesses inside, the newly refurbished Victorian Market is a joy. It’s twinkly and bright and a great place to go if it’s cold or wet outside. Also if it isn’t. It’s also our favourite place to eat at any time of day and to grab a coffee.

The Food & Drink Hall is always busy with locals and tourists alike. Over the Christmas period there’s carols and live music and DJs and when we’ve been in the summer there’s often live local musicians. There is a huge variety of food stalls representing world cuisine. Our favourites so far are The Bad Girl Bakery for super coffee and cake (tho I wish they’d do a veggie sausage roll or pasty), Salt N Fire – great vegan street food and The Mart for absolutely banging burgers both meaty and not meaty.

For those of you who like a lil stiffener while shopping there’s a licensed bar area called Moonshine.

We haven’t had a chance to try any other stalls but they are on the list for the next Big Shop.

Places to Eat & Drink

There is a huge variety of restaurants, bars and pubs in Inverness. As always my advice is ‘if it’s bookable and you want to go, book it’. We haven’t been everywhere and some places we didn’t like but we’re not going to mention those here. If you’re staying with us and you want to check somewhere before you book it, just drop us an email.

Places we know we like:

HouHou Mie– the only things I miss about living in a town are a)being able to buy socks at an affordable price, not ones artisanally knitted out of pine martin’s eyelashes and b) a sit down Chinese. Hou Hou Mie is deservedly very popular and you’ll need to book in advance. It makes my taste buds sing with joy to eat there.

Rocpool (the one on the river/bridge not the Reserve) – superb fresh, Scottish-with-a-twist menu. A bit treat-y but worth it for a celebration if budgets allow.

Pizza Express – yeah yeah I know. But pizza is my death row food and I love this chain. Don’t go thinking you can walk in here tho, book.

Girvans – fantastic for breakfast/brunch and patisserie to die for (there’s a theme developing here).

XOKO Bakehouse and Cantina – if you’ve never had a banana bread latte have you even lived? Delicious baking too.

The White House – smart bistro, excellent for weekend bottomless brunches, lassies who lunch, lads who lunch, non binary lunchers too. They have cocktail masterclasses and a lovely light menu.

The RiverHouse – smart restaurant with great views serving excellent seafood. Good for a special occasion or a bit of romance.

Whisky & Rye: the place that introduced Johnny to a dram and a pony. Cheery pub food and a great malt selection.

MacGregor’s – cheery pub food and great live music. Last time we went the staff were the most delightful humans you could wish to encounter.

Johnny Foxes – a proper local knees up. Live music, boozy hens and stags, sticky floors and happy people. We’ve not eaten here so check internet reviews.

Prime – if you’re a seafood and steak kinda gal/guy/chum

Before you get to Inverness check what’s on at Eden Court. They often have great bands, both Scottish and further afield. Will Young (my boyfriend in my head. No, Listen… he’s not going to marry me anyway so it doesn’t matter that he’s gay. Sad times.) played last year. Jeanio and I were so close to the front.

So that’s some of my thoughts on Sneckie. If you think I’ve missed something out just pop it in the comments. It took us a long time to love the city but now we do – very much.

The ETA -what you need to know when coming to (or through) the UK

January 29, 2025 by katie 2 Comments

A new e-document is now required to enter the UK from countries outside Europe. This will be extended to all international travellers from April 2nd of this year. It includes landside transit passengers –but not airside transit passengers.

If you’re not sure if you need one or not you can check here

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/check-when-you-can-get-an-electronic-travel-authorisation-eta

Then the government website will take you through what you have to do. If you’re staying with us and you’re having any problems just drop me an email at katieheron1@icloud.com and we’ll see if we can work through it together. It is indeed a vexing piece of red tape but we won’t let it spoil your holiday.

So here are some lovely pictures of the area around our little hotel to remind you why it’s worth a bit more effort to sort it all out.

In search of your heritage – family, clans, tartan and all that.

January 20, 2025 by katie 3 Comments

Many of our guests have a primary or secondary agenda when coming to Skye; to explore their family heritage. It’s a sensitive topic so I’m not going to address the ‘are you Scottish?’ question here. but I am going to offer suggestions as to how to go about getting the most out of your visit if it’s family you’re looking for.

Before you come: do as much reading as you can. General Highland history, biographies of anyone in your family’s past who might have been noteworthy, books about castles, clearances, clans and chiefs. It will definitely broaden your knowledge and possibly dispel some tales your granny told you. If you have evidence like birth certificates, emigration documents and the like, pack them. Make an appointment to visit the Skye & Lochalsh Archive Centre in Portree. If it’s family who left Skye within living memory then join the Skye & Lochalsh Memories facebook group and see if anyone can fill in missing details for you.

People outwith Scotland often ask on travel forums about kilts and whether they should wear theirs. I’m very much in the wear what you want camp but there’s a few things to bear in mind.

Most Scottish people wear kilts at weddings, other ceilidh events and to the football/rugby (with a team shirt and boots). It’s possible you might get mistaken for a Rabbies’ tour guide in your kilt but take it on the chin and you’ll be grand.
There is a correct length to wear your kilt.
There are lots of surnames without tartans whatever the tartan selling websites will tell you.
If you’re going to buy a good quality kilt you will have to spend. There are outfitters in Inverness, I suggest you visit two or three to see which you prefer if you’re buying ‘off the peg’. The staff in the ones we have visited are, without exception, incredibly helpful.
If you want a bespoke kilt, (or other beautiful tartan creations), we recommend the incredible Leona aka Kiltquine, based in Carbost. You’ll need to make appointments and chat to her beforehand but the end result will be something to last a lifetime. Check out her work on Facebook and Instagram.

The word clan comes from the Gaelic word for children (clann). This was the main system of government in Scotland from the 12th century to the crushing of the Jacobite rebellion in 1746 and the proceeding years. The best book I have read on this topic is The Highland Clans by Alistair Moffat. I’m looking forward to reading his following book – War Paths. If you’re looking to understand the big picture of family history this would be a good place to start.

By far the majority of guests who come to stay with us looking for family are linked to the MacDonalds or the MacLeods. The history between these clans is brutal and violent. The recently named Fairy Pools was known as Coire na Creiche – Corry (hollow) of the spoils.

This refers to a battle between the MacLeods and MacDonalds where the rivers reportedly ran red with blood and tartan. If you’re in Skye and you get a chance to hear the super knowledgeable Catherine McPhee of the archive centre speak, 100% take it. The key word here is history – while everyone is aware of the sins of the fathers the current generations are just fine together.

The MacLeods.

If your family links are Macleod you should start your Skye journey at Dunvegan Castle, home of Hugh Magnus Macleod of MacLeod. Apart from the stunning gardens and imposing building inside are some notable heirlooms of the clan. The most important (I would say) is Am Bratach Sith, the Fairy Flag but there is also a medieval drinking cup and Rory Mor’s horn.

With careful planning you can meet up with hundreds of Clan MacLeods at the Gathering and Parliament. The next one is the first week of August 2026 and there is one every 4 years. There is a great gift shop and clanmacleod.org has an excellent selection of books and other merchandise.

A tragic place, Trumpan Church is where the MacLeods, performing their act of Sunday worship, were burned to death by Uist MacDonalds intent on revenge for the murder of their clansmen on Eigg. It’s a beautiful place for a walk, regardless of your reason for being there. The views across to the Outer Isles can be spectacular.

If you’re feeling energetic talk a walk up to Macleod’s Tables (Macleod’s Tables (Walkhighlands) Stunning views, great folklore and the prospect of a good meal in Dunvegan on your return.

The MacDonalds.

Armadale Castle in the south of the island should be your starting point if you’re looking for Clan Donald family history. Although the castle is no more than a small ruin it’s easy to stand on the lawn and imagine the original building coming under attack in 1690 from HMS Dumbarton in an attempt to make Sir Donald Macdonald of Sleat submit to the new government. There’s a great little museum in the grounds and the gardens are absolutely wonderful, reflecting Scottish aristocracy’s travels across the world and their curiosity about the flora of other continents. There is a café and an excellent gift shop.

We would recommend treating yourself to a meal at Kinloch Lodge, the home of Godfrey, Lord Macdonald of Macdonald, the 35th High Chief of Clan Donald and his wife Lady Clare. The hotel is now run by the fabulous Isabella and I can confidently say that the Sunday lunch is quite the best (and the best value) I have ever had. You’ll eat your meal under the distinctly disapproving gaze of MacDonalds down the ages whose portraits adorn the walls.

You then need to head North to Duntulm Castle which was the home of the MacDonalds until 1732. If you believe in ghosts then it’s worth looking into the stories about the castle. If not it’s worth the walk for the stunning views. Then head round to visit the grave of one of the most famous MacDonalds of all – Flora. I can recommend the book Pretty Young Rebel by Flora Fraser as a way to learn about this remarkable woman and her life. Her final resting place is in Kilmuir Cemetery in Hungladder – also the burial place of the MacArthurs, pipers for the MacDonalds of Duntulm.

So, whether you’re looking for direct family, distant ancestors or a period of history that has caught your imagination tread gently on the history, listen to the stories, educate yourself before you come and while you’re here. Listen to the people who know, be ready for the kilt banter. Accept that your definition of being ‘Scottish’ might not be same as someone else’s. You’ll find the most welcoming, helpful people you would ever want to meet and you’ll find it difficult to leave.

My father, Glaswegian Gavin Lambie, in 1918, sitting on a fake log in a sou’wester with, rather alarmingly, a shotgun.

Forget your troubles, c’mon get happy…

November 27, 2024 by katie 1 Comment

I’ve been anxious since I could think. If you’ve stayed with us, you almost certainly didn’t notice as I glide through breakfast like Margot Fonteyn in Converse. Yet I was an anxious child, an anxious teen, an anxious, diagnosed but untreated ADHD 20 something etc etc etc. So maybe, (you might think) hospitality is not the best choice for me at the butt-end of my 50s.

But oh how I love how the young people are accepting and understanding of their slayDHD, how people are talking about their worries, depression, neurodivergences… and it’s helped me understand how being me makes me ‘good at hospitality’ in some ways. I asked some of my anxious friends what they thought. Here’s part of our dialogue:

Martin: You tend to have thought of everything way before time if you are a worry type of person. This means you also usually have a plan B (and maybe even C and D) up your sleeve in case of either emergencies or changes of plan, because you have usually thought it to the nth degree.

Jennie: Guests generally get a great experience because you have thought of every detail so much xxx

Me: so long as you don’t actually walk into the door while carrying a pile of plates because your brain is thinking of 7 possibilities and ain’t got no time for coordinating. Hypothetically of course

Catherine: It’s conducive for great list making which as a typical Virgo I do of course wholeheartedly embrace.

I can confirm this. I have many many notebooks. Some even used halfway through…

Laura: The most positive example I can offer is that reality is invariably never ever as bad as the 4276 horrific scenarios you’ve played out in your head…….Most of all, please know that all of your feelings are valid and completely normal. Lots of love from your fellow worrywart.

I can also confirm this. When Covid came I went into automatic coping strategy, us anxious people had been ready for this all our lives.

Anxiety and over thinking can lead to clumsiness; always known (sometimes affectionately) as ‘One Plate Kate’ I never take risks carrying breakfast dishes recklessly. This leads to me clocking up my 10,000 steps over breakfast. It does also lead to mishaps. Here’s a picture of me at the Fairy Pools approximately 10 seconds before Johnny said ‘watch where you’re putting your feet’, I forgot what feet are supposed to do, let alone where I was supposed to be putting mine, and promptly fell over. It happens quite a bit, I’m used to it but it does alarm other people.

In my conversations with myself in the early hours I make decisions in answer to questions like ‘but what if this little guest is in the middle of toilet training while on holiday and loses a week of progress?’. Thank goodness one can order from Amazon at 3am.

Or ‘ I don’t like how many additives there are in brown sauce, I wonder if I can make my own’. Turns out you can. Next stop Nutella…

It means that after a couple of guests commented that the shower/loo pump in one of the rooms had begun to make a disturbance I ‘persuaded’ Johnny and Gary to completely reorganise the drainage so it didn’t do that any more (and I could sleep through the night without keeping one ear open for late night flushes). And it needed to be done straight away when we closed. Weather? What weather?

So actually me being me means I enjoy what I do so very much. And our reviews tell you that our guests love staying with us too. Also very much. Check us out on Google.

I’m currently researching books about MacDonalds and MacLeods to put in our rooms, looking at recipes for breakfast shots (like turmeric & ginger, not like vodka or tequila my friends) and getting VERY picky about 3d wallpaper which may or may not send my hugely tolerant and understanding husband over the edge.

Kermit doesn’t find it that easy being green, but green he is, and being green is one of the things that makes him Kermit. I feel the same about being anxious, now I just need to write a song for my anxious buddies and the people who live with us. You’re not alone.

A pre trip reading list. Suggestions Part2 – Scottish history.

April 19, 2024 by katie Leave a Comment

The history of Scotland is hugely complex and threads into the present like a trendy crochet pattern. It is impossible to cover even the key events in our past in a book selection so I have just picked three that I have read, enjoyed and learned from. If you have any suggestions of others for me that would be amazing, just leave them in the comments.

Before Scotland: a Prehistory. I read this on my Kindle and it really kept my attention. I’m not very good at Kindle reading and tend to abandon books a way through but this one is different. It’s really well written and includes geological as well as human history. It didn’t feel like a history book if that makes sense.

I hadn’t really thought about prehistory since primary school until we went to Skara Brae in Orkney last year. It’s a stunning site but the thing that still stays with me was the stone dressers in the dwellings where people would display their precious things. It was this that prompted me to read Alistair Moffat’s book – to give me some context on such universal house decorating. There’s also wider information on world events happening concurrently with Scotland (or what would become Scotland)’s development.

On the blurb of the cover of The Scottish Enlightenment by Arthur Herman Irvine Welsh says Every Scot should read it. Scotland now has the lively, provocative and positive history it deserves.

He’s not wrong (he seldom is). My copy has a very dense text and I still hoovered it up. Herman’s writing is really clear and he deals with complex political and cultural issues in a very readable way. I first heard about ‘the Scottish miracle’ in an exceptionally inaccessible podcast about economics. It interested me enough to find this book and I’m so glad I did. You need to commit chunks of time to reading it, it’s not a dipper. It gives context for those abroad with Scottish heritage, so if you’re coming here to feel closer to your family roots then this is definitely the book for you.

It’s a book written from a certain premise but Herman backs up his ideas with impressive evidence. 100% recommend.

D*mn Rebel B*tches (careful asterisks just in case) by Maggie Craig is a fantastic book. Focussing on the stories of the women caught up in the events of ’45-46. The author uses letters and original papers to bring to life a largely undocumented area of a very well documented time. It has all sorts of details in that were totally new to me and I really enjoyed Maggie Craig’s style. She also writes fiction so her writing flows beautifully and keeps you engaged throughout. Again this book is not a dipper – the chapters aren’t in a linear order so you need to concentrate. A reminder that it’s not just about Flora Macdonald, but those whose names have been left aside, those who have become nameless and those who should have had their names in all the books about this time. As an aside, the book does assume that you already have some knowledge about the rebellion, so come to it after maybe reading Jacqueline Riding’s excellent Jacobites: a new history of the ’45 rebellion.

There are some terrible books out there – I won’t name and shame them here but you’ll work out which they are quite quickly. Just comment if you’d like me to give you a low down! Historians write the best history books, just saying :)

Visiting the Fairy Pools.

February 21, 2024 by katie 3 Comments

The Fairy Pools…on a lot of people’s bucket lists (a term I’m not very keen on, but hey ho) and one of the most photographed places in Scotland. So, is it worth going? Will you be surrounded by other people? Will you be disappointed? Let your Aunt Katie give you the low down.

Basics: The Fairy Pools are situated on the road to Glen Brittle about 8 miles away from the Taigh Ailean Hotel. They are a series of waterfalls and pools in the foothills of the Cuillin. In recent years a car park, toilets and a bridge over the first river crossing have been added to cater for the increase in visitors and make at least the first part of the walk accessible.

Getting the most out of your day. The Fairy Pools are very popular with visitors – so we recommend our guests get there as early as possible. Some opt for an early, light breakfast (we offer tea, toast, cereal etc as early as you wish – served by a cheery, maybe bleary, me), some take a packed lunch, some head off with the sunrise and are back for a full Scottish by 8:30. The days are long in summer so an early start means early. Another option is to visit at the end of your day, after dinner at the Old Inn maybe.

Parking. Currently the charge is £6 which can be paid card or cash. This might seem a lot but it goes towards the upkeep and development of the area. You absolutely do not want to know what parts of the trail was like before the public loos were put in. Some of the proceeds also go to supporting the Minginsh community – subsidising senior citizen lunch club, helping people who are struggling to buy food etc. So, just by parking you are part of something important – thankyou.

You’ll need a basic level of fitness. My fitness is pretty basic and I can do the whole walk. But I am shattered at the end and the slope back up to the car park is almost enough to end me. The dog used to be able to manage but it’s too much for his chunky, stumpy 12 year old self now so we just do the first part. The walk is dog friendly but if they’re divers or ‘close to the edgers’ you should probably keep them on a lead.

Quite a lot of people “do” the Fairy Pools as part of a day whizz about Skye. You’ll see a lot of people taking photographs of the first couple of pools then hotfooting it back to their tour bus to zoom off to do the same thing at Sligachan Bridge. If that’s all you have time for then make sure you get the best pictures! You’ll find the further you walk along the path the less people you see. The full circular walk is 5 miles, fairly easy although quite boggy in places. If you have two cars you could park one at Sligachan Hotel, drive you all round to the Fairy Pools then walk back across to the pub rather than complete the circular walk. It’s rather uneven at times so good walking shoes/boots are important. I have seen people in flip flops or wellies but that’s just asking for a twisted ankle or worse. The clearest guidance for the walk can be found at Fairy Pools and Coire na Creiche (Walkhighlands) Obviously you can just set off and turn back whenever time or fitness requires.

It can be midgetastic so take your Smidge with you. Midges are rubbish insects really. They don’t like wind, heat, cold or rain. But they do love a damp, warm morning or evening and a bit of standing water. They’re usually about from late April to mid September so be prepared.

The pools are a popular spot for wild swimming (what we used to call swimming in the old days). The environmental issues associated with this are for another day I think. The waters are gloriously clear, astonishingly cold and highly instagrammable. But they can also be tragically dangerous so ….. well ….. be sensible. Make sure you have towels and warm clothes ready and maybe a flask of something hot because the mountain waters will chill you to the core. I’d also suggest you have your costume/trunks on before you set off as there aren’t really any changing rocks for your modesty.

So, to sum up. The Fairy Pools are beautiful and worth a visit – but plan your day carefully to get the best experience. Wear the right clothes and bring the right accessories. Are there other places in Skye just as lovely if not more so? With quieter swimming spots and splendid views? Absolutely – I’ll tell you about them at breakfast.

A pre-trip reading list. Suggestions part1. Crime Fiction.

December 16, 2023 by katie 1 Comment

I often see people asking for recommendations of books they can read while planning their trip to Scotland. I’m putting together a list for our guests with examples of each author on a shelf in the guest sitting room. I thought I might share it with you, so you could let me know what you’ve enjoyed and I can add them in.

I love a good crime novel. I’m mostly an audio book reader these days (it’s reading, just as Kindle reading is reading) and I find a well written crime novel can really give you a feel for a place. Of course there’s loads of inconsequential fluff (which I quite like) and series that are much better on television than on paper , but Scottish crime writers really do deliver. There are super famous ones like Ian Rankin and Val McDermid of whom I’m sure you’ve heard, so I’ve picked three you might not have come across.

Chris Brookmyre

If you like fast paced, witty writing intertwined with politics and social commentary (which I really do), don’t mind your books a bit sweary (which I don’t ), then you might just fall in love with Chris Brookmyre’s style. His books are mainly set in the Central Belt and you get a view of the cities and the humour. I generally raise a cynical eyebrow at books with laugh out loud hilarious in the blurb, but while listening to Quite Ugly One Morning I did in fact laugh out loud – more than once. I would respectfully recommend you avoid the television adaptation tho. There are 3 series of books featuring different protagonists; Jack Parlabane – an investigative journalist, Angelique du Xavier – a counterterrorism officer and Jasmine Sharp (private detective) & Catherine MacLeod (senior police detective). I absolutely can’t pick a favourite but I do strongly recommend you read a series in order.

nb: Chris Brookmyre is also in the band Fun Lovin’ Crime Writers. My dream gig.

Quite Ugly One Morning By Christopher Brookmyre

Denzil Meyrick

In contrast to Chris Brookmyre the writings of Denzil Meyrick are much more gentle. Set in the village of Kinloch on the West Coast of Scotland the books really reflect the nature of rural Scottish communities. Much of what he describes could be transplanted to any small Highland village, ours included. At first the premise of hard bitten city detective finds themselves in rural confusion might seem a little over familiar. But soon the sheer warmth of the characters wins you over and you really start to care about DCI Daley, his sergeant Brian Scott and (most of) the residents of Kinloch. I *might* have been on a long drive with tears on my cheeks whispering ‘oh poor Hamish’. I felt quite bereft when I caught up with the author and I’m really looking forward to the next in the series.

Whisky from Small Glasses By Denzil Meyrick

Lin Anderson

I came to Lin Anderson’s writing via the children’s books she has written with my dear friend Donald Mackay. If you have younger readers then the stories of quite the most remarkable border collies I have ever met will be a treat. But Lin’s Tartan Noir books for adults are also absolutely gripping. Forensic scientist Rhona MacLeod has a troubled past (of course she does – I think it’s a prerequisite of being the main character in pretty much every novel) . The books don’t shy away from the brutality of life so if you’re a fan of cosy crime then this is not the series for you. Lin is a wonderful storyteller and the characters life stories enrich and explain the plot rather than distract from it. Descriptions of Glasgow and the surrounding areas are excellent and there are 17 books so far in this series which will give you something to sink your teeth into.

Driftnet by Lin Anderson - Audiobook - Audible.co.uk

That’s only 3 of my favourite authors. There’s Granite Noir from Stuart MacBride, the jolly rollicking adventure of DCI Jack Logan and his team by JD Kirk, set around Inverness and Fort William and currently I’m listening to a new-to me author Nicola White who will be at the Crime Writers Festival in Cromarty nest year (along with my absolute author idol Anthony Horowitz -*faints a bit*)

Visiting somewhere different: Canna

July 7, 2023 by katie 2 Comments

Every now and again I’m going to offer a suggestion as to somewhere else you can add onto your Highland adventure. There’s loads of places in Skye that aren’t on the usual lists and tick itineraries (you won’t find me posting them on here, but you might get the low down at breakfast if you’re staying with us!) – but here and there I’ll write about places you can go to next, or first.

I’ve wanted to go to Canna forever and it was an absolutely wonderful trip.

How we got there (and how we should have done.)

Book your ferry from Mallaig to Canna. You can’t take your car (unless you need it for business on the island – and there aren’t any roads to speak of anyway). We stayed in Fort William overnight. I’m not a huge fan tbh and we didn’t find anywhere nice to eat. We should have booked our accommodation earlier in order to get somewhere affordable in Mallaig. Anyway, that was us. We left the car in one of the free parking areas – amazing.

The ferry across stops at Eigg and Rum. We had the dog with us and there’s a great dog area inside as well as the deck. It took about 3 hours and the boy slept most of the way, except when we had a great Calmac breakfast.

Where we stayed.

There is a small B&B on the island but we opted for one of two static caravans operated by Isebail. It’s a proper home from home, super comfortable with brilliant views. She also runs the bunkhouse, bothy and campsite as well as crofting. I thought she was fabulous.

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What we ate.

We ordered the breakfast basket from Isebail, eggs, homemade bread and some gorgeous marmalade. We stocked up with that and some garlic salt from the honesty box before we left. Both nights we booked into Canna Café, which was one of the main reasons we’d chosen Canna for our first mini break of the summer. It’s really small, with lovely views from the outside seating (where we sat and had an Isle of Eigg beer before dinner.)1

The food is spectacular, quite the best seafood platter I’ve ever had, and I’ve had a few.

You’ll need to order that, and some of the other shellfish the day before because they collect it off the boat just before service. I had the same pudding both nights which is unheard of, but totally understandable.

We plan to go back as soon as we can, just for the prawn toasts. You absolutely need to book (and the cafe is not open every day, so check that too). We also grabbed a packing up for the ferry on the way back.

There is also a fantastic honesty shop with a great selection of food and souvenirs. Its also the place for wifi on the island.

What we did.

We only had one full day in Canna and we spent that walking to see the puffins on the stacks. It’s not like some of the other islands where they are on your feet, the stacks are far away. But we saw loads with binoculars and some naked eye puffins too. The walk was beautiful although maybe a little too much for the dog – you need a basic level of fitness which the 12 year old chonker might be lacking.

There are coves to swim in, ancient sites to see, bays for a picnic and, when it’s open again, Canna House, which looks extraordinary – it belongs to the Scottish National Trust so grab your membership today!

Summary

We had the absolute best time in Canna. If you fancy something less touristy stop moaning about the crowds at the Fairy Pools and get yourself booked on the ferry. Why not combine it with a stop off in Rum to see the birds or Eigg (described by one ferry master as the party island). Before or after your Skye trip this will be an amazing adventure.

The TA Guide to Scottish Bank Notes

June 28, 2023 by katie 3 Comments

The two best things about a Scottish £5 note are that a) you can buy a quiche and two cheese scones from Elanor’s honesty porch and b) they can go through the wash repeated times, be tumble dried scrunched up in a pocket and still spring out, perfectly smooth and ready to be popped into a tip box.

I recently wrote a Facebook post about Scottish money in the hope that it might help clarify confusions. Some people are so confidently wrong about things it takes your breath away.

Anyway, lots of people read it and said that it was useful so I thought I’d pop it up here. I will add an edit onto the end of the piece with information that people added or asked about that I didn’t think to include – the hive mind is a great thing.

So my lovely friends. There’s been a lot of confusion in the world of the internet about money in Scotland. Let me try to help in a few easy to understand steps.

• Scotland uses pounds sterling (£) like the rest of the UK

• Notes issued in Scotland look different from those issued in England.

• English notes are accepted in Scotland provided they are in current circulation.

• All Scottish notes have a shiny, plastic finish. Any papery notes are out of date. You MIGHT be able to exchange them in a bank but they may well refuse them unless you bank with them.

• You might have trouble using Scottish notes in England (particularly the South). They are uk currency but this does not mean any retailer HAS to accept them. You can swap Scottish notes for English notes at a bank.

• There is a £100 note. This may not be accepted by smaller shops. Again they don’t HAVE to accept your money so maybe split it at a bank if you have one.

As an aside tipping in cash is appreciated (a post on tipping is coming soon). Paying in cash is always appreciated (unless a place asks specifically for cards) by small businesses as it really helps us avoid significant fees from card suppliers.

EDITS:

American chums apparently you have to beware as some US banks are trying to slip you the old papery notes. Do not accept these. Also have a firm word with them.

£1 notes: there are still some of these in circulation. Again they are UK currency but you might find they are not accepted so I’d swap them in a bank if you get them.

Some ATMS charge to withdraw cash, some don’t. If you say a sign saying FREE CASH in huge letters and ‘withdrawals’ in tiny letters that means you’re safe. But you absolutely need to check what your bank is charging. Mine is wonderful and doesn’t charge me to use an ATM in another country, other contributors suggested a REVOLUT card, I’m not going to recommend it because I have no personal experience but you might want to check it out.

Post Offices will change your money and accept out of date currency but don’t expect the amazing Eve in the dinky Carbost PO to have a grand in Scottish crispies handy to exchange for you.

Danske Bank notes from Northen Ireland are also UK currency. They look very ‘foreign’ (as it were) and you might need to be prepared to explain what they are. Again I’d recommend a swap at a bank in order to save yourself any trouble and not fluster your wait staff.

Some retail outlets and places to eat do not accept cash at all now. So definitely have a card in your wallet. If you use Amex bring it with you. More places than you think accept it and, let’s face it, it doesn’t take up any room.

In conclusion (like a proper year 10 essay), check your money before you set off, have a debit/credit card that you know works in the UK and have a brilliant time. Buying local is absolutely best, tipping in cash too (another post on tipping is brewing in my mind right this minute). You can be utterly spendalicious in Scotland or work to a strict budget and still have the best time. Fine dining at Edinbane Lodge or a swift pizza in Caberfeidh, glorious jewellery from Love from Skye or a Highland Cow fridge magnet from Tippicanoe – all memories to be treasured once you’re home.

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