Taigh Ailean Hotel

Accommodation near Carbost

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‘This is my home, this is my soup’ – in praise of simple things.

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If you’ve had a long drive to get to us, or if you’ve had a big day adventuring before you check in, or if you just want to put your ‘jamas on as you settle into your bedroom then you’re the reason we decided last year to offer soup and sandwiches on the day of your arrival. Available in the sitting room, the dining room or in your bedroom. This photo was taken by one of our guests.

All the soup is homemade, gluten free and vegan. It’s extra tasty because of all the fresh ingredients roasted in it.

The bread is thick and fresh and the fillings have been thought through carefully (you get to choose from a wide range). Here’s the hammy ham just out of the oven.

It’s absolutely not fancy but it’s just the ticket. As one of our guests said “soup is the welcoming food. You open your door and say ‘here is my home, here is my soup'”. I like that very much.

Forget your troubles, c’mon get happy…

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I’ve been anxious since I could think. If you’ve stayed with us, you almost certainly didn’t notice as I glide through breakfast like Margot Fonteyn in Converse. Yet I was an anxious child, an anxious teen, an anxious, diagnosed but untreated ADHD 20 something etc etc etc. So maybe, (you might think) hospitality is not the best choice for me at the butt-end of my 50s.

But oh how I love how the young people are accepting and understanding of their slayDHD, how people are talking about their worries, depression, neurodivergences… and it’s helped me understand how being me makes me ‘good at hospitality’ in some ways. I asked some of my anxious friends what they thought. Here’s part of our dialogue:

Martin:  You tend to have thought of everything way before time if you are a worry type of person. This means you also usually have a plan B (and maybe even C and D) up your sleeve in case of either emergencies or changes of plan, because you have usually thought it to the nth degree. 

 

Jennie: Guests generally get a great experience because you have thought of every detail so much xxx

Me: so long as you don’t actually walk into the door while carrying a pile of plates because your brain is thinking of 7 possibilities and ain’t got no time for coordinating. Hypothetically of course

 

Catherine: It’s conducive for great list making which as a typical Virgo I do of course wholeheartedly embrace. 

I can confirm this. I have many many notebooks. Some even used halfway through…

 

Laura: The most positive example I can offer is that reality is invariably never ever as bad as the 4276 horrific scenarios you’ve played out in your head…….Most of all, please know that all of your feelings are valid and completely normal. Lots of love from your fellow worrywart.

I can also confirm this. When Covid came I went into automatic coping strategy, us anxious people had been ready for this all our lives.

Anxiety and over thinking can lead to clumsiness; always known (sometimes affectionately) as ‘One Plate Kate’ I never take risks carrying breakfast dishes recklessly. This leads to me clocking up my 10,000 steps over breakfast. It does also lead to mishaps. Here’s a picture of me at the Fairy Pools approximately 10 seconds before Johnny said ‘watch where you’re putting your feet’, I forgot what feet are supposed to do, let alone where I was supposed to be putting mine, and promptly fell over. It happens quite a bit, I’m used to it but it does alarm other people.

Katie crossing some stepping rocks at the Fairy Pools with the fluffy sausage dog. The water looks cold, can confirm it was.

In my conversations with myself in the early hours I make decisions in answer to questions like ‘but what if this little guest is in the middle of toilet training while on holiday and loses a week of progress?’. Thank goodness one can order from Amazon at 3am.

A toddler step and little seat for the loo (also a nappy bag)

Or ‘ I don’t like how many additives there are in brown sauce, I wonder if I can make my own’. Turns out you can. Next stop Nutella…

The raw ingredients for Steve & Katie's brown sauce. There's rather a lot of them.

It means that after a couple of guests commented that the shower/loo pump in one of the rooms had begun to make a disturbance I ‘persuaded’ Johnny and Gary to completely reorganise the drainage so it didn’t do that any more (and I could sleep through the night without keeping one ear open for late night flushes). And it needed to be done straight away when we closed. Weather? What weather?

Two very hardy souls putting in new pipework in the snow. It was -1 but the show must go on.

So actually me being me means I enjoy what I do so very much. And our reviews tell you that our guests love staying with us too. Also very much. Check us out on Google.

I’m currently researching books about MacDonalds and MacLeods to put in our rooms, looking at recipes for breakfast shots (like turmeric & ginger, not like vodka or tequila my friends) and getting VERY picky about 3d wallpaper which may or may not send my hugely tolerant and understanding husband over the edge.

3d woodland wallpaper. It looks as if you could touch the folding paper but you can't of course, that would be crazy talk. It's 2d really

Kermit doesn’t find it that easy being green, but green he is, and being green is one of the things that makes him Kermit. I feel the same about being anxious, now I just need to write a song for my anxious buddies and the people who live with us. You’re not alone.

 

 

 

 

Visiting the Fairy Pools.

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The Fairy Pools…on a lot of people’s bucket lists (a term I’m not very keen on, but hey ho) and one of the most photographed places in Scotland. So, is it worth going? Will you be surrounded by other people?  Will you be disappointed? Let your Aunt Katie give you the low down.

Basics: The Fairy Pools are situated on the road to Glen Brittle about 8 miles away from the Taigh Ailean Hotel. They are a series of waterfalls and pools in the foothills of the Cuillin. In recent years a car park, toilets and a bridge over the first river crossing have been added to cater for the increase in visitors and make at least the first part of the walk accessible.

Getting the most out of your day. The Fairy Pools are very popular with visitors – so we recommend our guests get there as early as possible. Some opt for an early, light breakfast (we offer tea, toast, cereal etc as early as you wish – served by a cheery, maybe bleary, me), some take a packed lunch, some head off with the sunrise and are back for a full Scottish by 8:30. The days are long in summer so an early start means early. Another option is to visit at the end of your day, after dinner at the Old Inn maybe.

Parking. Currently the charge is £6 which can be paid card or cash. This might seem a lot but it goes towards the upkeep and development of the area. You absolutely do not want to know what parts of the trail was like before the public loos were put in. Some of the proceeds also go to supporting the Minginsh community – subsidising senior citizen lunch club, helping people who are struggling to buy food etc. So, just by parking you are part of something important – thankyou.

You’ll need a basic level of fitness. My fitness is pretty basic and I can do the whole walk. But I am shattered at the end and the slope back up to the car park is almost enough to end me. The dog used to be able to manage but it’s too much for his chunky, stumpy 12 year old self now so we just do the first part. The walk is dog friendly but if they’re divers or ‘close to the edgers’ you should probably keep them on a lead.

  • Quite a lot of people “do” the Fairy Pools as part of a day whizz about Skye. You’ll see a lot of people taking photographs of the first couple of pools then hotfooting it back to their tour bus to zoom off to do the same thing at Sligachan Bridge. If that’s all you have time for then make sure you get the best pictures! You’ll find the further you walk along the path the less people you see. The full circular walk is 5 miles, fairly easy although quite boggy in places. If you have two cars you could park one at Sligachan Hotel, drive you all round to the Fairy Pools then  walk back across to the pub rather than complete the circular walk. It’s rather uneven at times so good walking shoes/boots are important. I have seen people in flip flops or wellies but that’s just asking for a twisted ankle or worse. The clearest guidance for the walk can be found at  Fairy Pools and Coire na Creiche (Walkhighlands)  Obviously you can just set off and turn back whenever time or fitness requires.

It can be midgetastic so take your Smidge with you. Midges are rubbish insects really. They don’t like wind, heat, cold or rain. But they do love a damp, warm morning or evening and a bit of standing water. They’re usually about from late April to mid September so be prepared.

The pools are a popular spot for wild swimming (what we used to call swimming in the old days). The environmental issues associated with this are for another day I think.  The waters are gloriously clear, astonishingly cold and highly instagrammable. But they can also be tragically dangerous so ….. well ….. be sensible. Make sure you have towels and warm clothes ready and maybe a flask of something hot because the mountain waters will chill you to the core. I’d also suggest you have your costume/trunks on before you set off as there aren’t really any changing rocks for your modesty.

So, to sum up. The Fairy Pools are beautiful and worth a visit – but plan your day carefully to get the best experience. Wear the right clothes and bring the right accessories. Are there other places in Skye just as lovely if not more so? With quieter swimming spots and splendid views? Absolutely – I’ll tell you about them at breakfast.

 

 

The TA Guide to Scottish Bank Notes

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The two best things about a Scottish £5 note are that a) you can buy a quiche and two cheese scones from Elanor’s honesty porch and b) they can go through the wash repeated times, be tumble dried scrunched up in a pocket and still spring out, perfectly smooth and ready to be popped into a tip box.

I recently wrote a Facebook post about Scottish money in the hope that it might help clarify confusions. Some people are so confidently wrong about things it takes your breath away.

 

Anyway, lots of people read it and said that it was useful so I thought I’d pop it up here. I will add an edit onto the end of the piece with information that people added or asked about that I didn’t think to include – the hive mind is a great thing.

So my lovely friends. There’s been a lot of confusion in the world of the internet about money in Scotland. Let me try to help in a few easy to understand steps.
• Scotland uses pounds sterling (£) like the rest of the UK
• Notes issued in Scotland look different from those issued in England.
• English notes are accepted in Scotland provided they are in current circulation.
• All Scottish notes have a shiny, plastic finish. Any papery notes are out of date. You MIGHT be able to exchange them in a bank but they may well refuse them unless you bank with them.
• You might have trouble using Scottish notes in England (particularly the South). They are uk currency but this does not mean any retailer HAS to accept them. You can swap Scottish notes for English notes at a bank.
• There is a £100 note. This may not be accepted by smaller shops. Again they don’t HAVE to accept your money so maybe split it at a bank if you have one.
As an aside tipping in cash is appreciated (a post on tipping is coming soon). Paying in cash is always appreciated (unless a place asks specifically for cards) by small businesses as it really helps us avoid significant fees from card suppliers.
EDITS:
 American chums apparently you have to beware as some US banks are trying to slip you the old papery notes. Do not accept these. Also have a firm word with them. 😡
£1  notes: there are still some of these in circulation. Again they are UK currency but you might find they are not accepted so I’d swap them in a bank if you get them.
Some ATMS charge to withdraw cash, some don’t. If you say a sign saying FREE CASH in huge letters and ‘withdrawals’ in tiny letters that means you’re safe. But you absolutely need to check what your bank is charging. Mine is wonderful and doesn’t charge me to use an ATM in another country, other contributors suggested a REVOLUT card, I’m not going to recommend it because I have no personal experience but you might want to check it out.
Post Offices will change your money and accept out of date currency but don’t expect the amazing Eve in the dinky Carbost PO to have a grand in Scottish crispies handy to exchange for you.
Danske Bank notes from Northen Ireland are also UK currency. They look very ‘foreign’ (as it were) and you might need to be prepared to explain what they are. Again I’d recommend a swap at a bank in order to save yourself any trouble and not fluster your wait staff.
Some retail outlets and places to eat  do not accept cash at all  now. So definitely have a card in your wallet. If you use Amex bring it with you. More places than you think accept it and, let’s face it, it doesn’t take up any room.
In conclusion (like a proper year 10 essay),  check your money before you set off, have a debit/credit card that you know works in the UK and have a brilliant time. Buying local is absolutely best, tipping in cash too (another post on tipping is brewing in my mind right this minute).  You can be utterly spendalicious in Scotland or work to a strict budget and still have the best time. Fine dining at Edinbane Lodge or a swift pizza in Caberfeidh, glorious jewellery from Love from Skye or a Highland Cow fridge magnet from Tippicanoe – all memories to be treasured once you’re home.

 

Carbost Community Shop

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Quite often people ask me what it’s like to live in Skye. It’s actually quite hard to explain or describe but the Village Shop (just a hop, skip and a three mile jaunt down the road) provides an excellent illustration. Bought by the local community just before the pandemic the shop has become a centre for the community. A stumpy little white building from the outside, inside it is full of the most amazing things. I cook a lot but I’d never used, or even heard of Ras El Hanout, now I chuck into pretty much everything.

It is run by a mixture of volunteers and paid workers, all local and all ready to help you pick some good stuff for your sandwiches (if you’ve resisted Elanor’s packed lunch option) , some local beer or gin or some of the most extra ordinary hot snax you’ve ever encountered (apparently they’re off of TikTok , all I know is that they are addictive and possibly dissolve the inside of your mouth).

The ethos of the shop is sustainability, whether you use the filling stations for your macaroni, buy one of the ethical and chic bags (designed by Ash who works in the shop – and is also responsible for the Takis – not all heroes wear capes) or try one of the shampoo/conditioner bars you’re doing a tiny bit to help recover our planet. And lots of tiny bits in lots of tiny shops makes a difference.

So, yes, we are very proud of the Carbost Community Shop. And tomorrow I get my training so I can be a ‘substitute till lady* when people are away. I’m really quite excited.

Carbost village shop © Dave Fergusson :: Geograph Britain and Ireland

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We’re family friendly, but what does that mean?

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As we set off into 2023 I was updating the website. Cheerily typed ‘a dog and family friendly b&b’… then realised I needed to think this through. (More on the dogs in another blog)

There’s a whole world of difference between places to stay where you’re allowed to bring your children and places like the Taigh Ailean where we offer a family friendly welcome.

I asked my friends on Facebook, and the friends of the TA on the business page,  what they thought; for they are wise and lovely. The response was pretty universal. Number 1 is the attitude of the team. And I can assure you that Jean, Elanor and all of the people you might come across during your stay will do everything they can to help you and your family have the absolute best time. Then there’s the little things we can do. We already have some fabulous bedding to make the stay extra cosy, nightlights if you need them, washable nappy bags that handle even the smelliest of poos. There are fairy doors and story books, high chairs, mini me breakfast portions and cutlery for small hands.

 

When you book with us you’ll receive a sheet with my recommendations for family friendly places to eat and things to do, to make sure that you can book your adventures well in advance and make certain you don’t miss out. (EDIT: Thankyou to those people who’ve messaged me, but respectfully these are for our guests, please ask you accommodation provider for their recommendations).

Suggestions from my Facebook consultants include making bird-spotting sheets for breakfast time and scavenger hunts for filling in during your Skye adventures. From loo seat boosters to little hats and gloves for emergency chilly days, I’m on it. Because we really do care about your family holiday.

In which I think about CNN/Skye is full and all that malarkey…

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I am annoyed. You can tell I’m annoyed because my lips have gone all pursey, I’m eating chocolate buttons and I keep telling people how annoyed I am.

It all began last year when the Daily Mail and the BBC got their knickers in a twist. *Skye is full, FULL I TELL YOU. Evacuate! Evacuate!*  Pictures of a sign saying a campsite was completely full suddenly transformed into headlines representing the whole island. I was tagged by alarmed friends in the news story more times than the gin/psychopath surveys and Fair Trade sausage dog jumpers on sale.

Then CNN decided to list us on its *places to avoid* list for 2018. How dare they? HOW ACTUALLY DARE THEY?? Another symptom of my annoyance is over-capitalisation by the way. Let’s pick apart their evidence (which tbf demonstrated less research than an average Year 9’s RE homework).

There are about 10,000 people who live on the island. Most of those aren’t accommodation providers. Most of those who are have Bed and Breakfast accommodation with 3 or less rooms. So if you want to visit it’s simply common sense to arrange where you’re going to stay in advance. Huuuuuuge props to our Danish guests who have just booked for September 2019 this week.

Now, you come to Skye. What to see? If you Google *Top 5 places to see on Skye*, when you turn up it’s highly likely to be full of people who’ve also done the same search. Why not ask your friendly hotel bar-matron for advice? Be ready to be adventurous, amazed and possibly a bit muddy. Our beautiful island is a place to be, a place to experience, not a place to *do* or tick off. It’s why we don’t accept one night bookings. If you’re planning to drive the whole island in a day and be in Pitlochry before dark you’d probably be best staying on the mainland and chilling your beans a bit. If you take a selfie from your car while driving past the distillery then, yes indeed, you have technically *done Talisker* but you won’t know the joy of the 18 year malt old whirling like peaty nectar on your tongue. If you buy your souvenirs from the first shop you see your friends will indeed have a little something from Skye that will probably end up in a drawer. But you won’t have popped into Sally’s tiny shop in Fernilea to see her exquisite creations knitted with wool from sheep she has grown her actual self. You won’t have visited the *Made in Minginish* craft event and sampled Jenny’s Danish pastries. (If I’m there you won’t have a chance, if we’re honest. I will have eaten them all). You won’t have made it to ór in Portree, or crossed the water to Raasay and visited Fiona at the Silver Grasshopper. Or eaten amazing chocolate with Pam and Angus. Or….. or…..or…..  In short, you’ll have missed out on some of the nicest people you could ever wish to meet. We have the most lovely guests, Klaus and Jessica, who come every year, for two weeks. They still haven’t seen everything.

Yes indeed there have been locals who have expressed the view that enough is enough as CNN said. But they don’t represent the majority of us who wish to share where we live with people who appreciate it. In the same way as I expect (if you’ve read this far) tourists who pee in people’s gardens and complain because there is no wifi signal at the Fairy Pools don’t represent you.

So, come and stay. With us, if you fancy something a bit different. Treat our island with the respect that somewhere so astonishing deserves. You won’t be disappointed. Trust me, I know my stuff…. now pass the chocolate buttons….

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Just a card….

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I don’t seem to be very good at blogging. But something has really touched me this week and inspired my (apparently biannual) blogger’s brain.
I caught this tweet from @Justacard1
‘If everyone who’d said ‘How Lovely’ about our beautiful gallery had bought JUST A CARD we’d still be open’.
Skye, and the Highlands in general, are full of amazing galleries, artists’ studios and little shops full of beautiful handmade loveliness
I take it for granted that if I need an enamel brooch handpainted with a Skye seascape, I can pop into Skyeworks and get one. If I want a scarf knitted within a mile of where I live from local sheepswool, I know Made In Minginish will have a variety to choose from.
But we’ve all done it…pottered round a gallery, admired everything, avoided eye contact with the hopeful looking gentleman in the corner and scooted out empty handed with a cheery *thankyoubye*.  Now I’m thinking, would it make a difference if I bought JUST ONE CARD? If we all bought a little something to recognise the effort and love that the gallery people have put into their business.                                  Maybe I’ll buy more than that, but you can never have too many cards, right?card

Taigh Ailean Hotel
Portnalong
Isle of Skye
IV47 8SL

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