Many of our guests have a primary or secondary agenda when coming to Skye; to explore their family heritage. It’s a sensitive topic so I’m not going to address the ‘are you Scottish?’ question here. but I am going to offer suggestions as to how to go about getting the most out of your visit if it’s family you’re looking for.

Before you come: do as much reading as you can.  General Highland history, biographies of anyone in your family’s past who might have been noteworthy, books about castles, clearances, clans and chiefs. It will definitely broaden your knowledge and possibly dispel some tales your granny told you. If you have evidence like birth certificates, emigration documents and the like, pack them. Make an appointment to visit the Skye & Lochalsh Archive Centre in Portree. If it’s family who left Skye within living memory then join the Skye & Lochalsh Memories facebook group and see if anyone can fill in missing details for you.

People outwith Scotland often ask on travel forums about kilts and whether they should wear theirs. I’m very much in the wear what you want camp but there’s a few things to bear in mind.

1. Most Scottish people wear kilts at weddings, other ceilidh events and to the football/rugby (with a team shirt and boots). It’s possible you might get mistaken for a Rabbies’ tour guide in your kilt but take it on the chin and you’ll be grand.
2. There is a correct length to wear your kilt.
3. There are lots of surnames without tartans whatever the tartan selling websites will tell you.
4. If you’re going to buy a good quality kilt you will have to spend. There are outfitters in Inverness, I suggest you visit two or three to see which you prefer if you’re buying ‘off the peg’. The staff in the ones we have visited are, without exception, incredibly helpful.
5. If you want a bespoke kilt,  (or other beautiful tartan creations), we recommend the incredible Leona aka Kiltquine, based in Carbost. You’ll need to make appointments and chat to her beforehand but the end result will be something to last a lifetime. Check out her work on Facebook and Instagram.

The word clan comes from the Gaelic word for children (clann). This was the main system of government in Scotland from the 12th century to the crushing of the Jacobite rebellion in 1746 and the proceeding years. The best book I have read on this topic is The Highland Clans by Alistair Moffat. I’m looking forward to reading his following book – War Paths. If you’re looking to understand the big picture of family history this would be a good place to start.

By far the majority of guests who come to stay with us looking for family are linked to the MacDonalds or the MacLeods. The history between these clans is brutal and violent. The recently named Fairy Pools was known as Coire na Creiche – Corry (hollow) of the spoils.

This refers to a battle between the MacLeods and MacDonalds where the rivers reportedly ran red with blood and tartan. If you’re in Skye and you get a chance to hear the super knowledgeable Catherine McPhee of the archive centre speak, 100% take it. The key word here is history – while everyone is aware of the sins of the fathers the current generations are just fine together.

The MacLeods. 

If your family links are Macleod you should start your Skye journey at Dunvegan Castle, home of Hugh Magnus Macleod of MacLeod. Apart from the stunning gardens and imposing building inside are some notable heirlooms of the clan. The most important (I would say) is Am Bratach Sith, the Fairy Flag but there is also a medieval drinking cup and Rory Mor’s horn.

With careful planning you can meet up with hundreds of Clan MacLeods at the Gathering and Parliament. The next one is the first week of August 2026 and there is one every 4 years. There is a great gift shop and clanmacleod.org has an excellent selection of books and other merchandise.

A tragic place, Trumpan Church is where the MacLeods, performing their act of Sunday worship, were burned to death by Uist MacDonalds intent on revenge for the murder of their clansmen on Eigg. It’s a beautiful place for a walk, regardless of your reason for being there. The views across to the Outer Isles can be spectacular.

If you’re feeling energetic talk a walk up to Macleod’s  Tables (Macleod’s Tables (Walkhighlands) Stunning views, great folklore and the prospect of a good meal in Dunvegan on your return.

The MacDonalds.

Armadale Castle in the south of the island should be your starting point if you’re looking for Clan Donald family history. Although the castle is no more than a small ruin it’s easy to stand on the lawn and imagine the original building coming under attack in 1690 from HMS Dumbarton in an attempt to make  Sir Donald Macdonald of Sleat submit to the new government. There’s a great little museum in the grounds and the gardens are absolutely wonderful, reflecting Scottish aristocracy’s travels across the world and their curiosity about the flora of other continents. There is a café and an excellent gift shop.

We would recommend treating yourself to a meal at Kinloch Lodge, the home of Godfrey, Lord Macdonald of Macdonald, the 35th High Chief of Clan Donald and his wife Lady Clare. The hotel is now run by the fabulous Isabella and I can confidently say that the Sunday lunch is quite the best (and the best value) I have ever had. You’ll eat your meal under the distinctly disapproving gaze of MacDonalds down the ages whose portraits adorn the walls.

You then need to head North to Duntulm Castle which was the home of the MacDonalds until 1732. If you believe in ghosts then it’s worth looking into the stories about the castle. If not it’s worth the walk for the stunning views. Then head round to visit the grave of one of the most famous MacDonalds of all – Flora. I can recommend the book Pretty Young Rebel by Flora Fraser as a way to learn about this remarkable woman and her life. Her final resting place is in Kilmuir Cemetery in Hungladder – also the burial place of the MacArthurs, pipers for the MacDonalds of Duntulm.

So, whether you’re looking for direct family, distant ancestors or a period of history that has caught your imagination   tread gently on the history, listen to the stories, educate yourself before you come and while you’re here. Listen to the people who know, be ready for the kilt banter. Accept that your definition of being ‘Scottish’ might not be same as someone else’s. You’ll find the most welcoming, helpful people you would ever want to meet and you’ll find it difficult to leave.

My father, Glaswegian Gavin Lambie, in 1918, sitting on a fake log in a sou’wester with, rather alarmingly, a shotgun.