Taigh Ailean Hotel

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A pre-trip reading list. Suggestions part1. Crime Fiction.

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I often see people asking for recommendations  of books they can read while planning their trip to Scotland. I’m putting together a list for our guests with examples of each author on a shelf  in the guest sitting room. I thought I might share it with you, so you could let me know what you’ve enjoyed and I can add them in.

I love a good crime novel. I’m mostly an audio book reader these days (it’s reading, just as Kindle reading is reading) and I find a well written crime novel can really give you a feel for a place. Of course there’s loads of inconsequential fluff (which I quite like) and series that are much better on television than on paper , but Scottish crime writers really do deliver. There are super famous ones like Ian Rankin and Val McDermid of whom I’m sure you’ve heard, so I’ve picked three you might not have come across.

Chris Brookmyre

If you like fast paced, witty writing intertwined with politics and social commentary (which I really do), don’t mind your books a bit sweary (which I don’t ), then you might just fall in love with Chris Brookmyre’s style. His books are mainly set in the Central Belt and you get a view of the cities and the humour. I generally raise a cynical eyebrow at books with laugh out loud hilarious in the blurb, but while listening to Quite Ugly One Morning I did in fact laugh out loud – more than once. I would respectfully recommend you avoid the television adaptation tho. There are 3 series of books featuring different protagonists; Jack Parlabane  – an investigative journalist, Angelique du Xavier – a counterterrorism officer and Jasmine Sharp (private detective)  & Catherine MacLeod (senior police detective). I absolutely can’t pick a favourite but I do strongly recommend you read a series in order.

nb:  Chris Brookmyre is also in the band Fun Lovin’ Crime Writers. My dream gig.

Quite Ugly One Morning By Christopher Brookmyre

Denzil Meyrick

In contrast to Chris Brookmyre the writings of Denzil Meyrick are much more gentle. Set in the village of Kinloch on the West Coast of Scotland the books really reflect the nature of rural Scottish communities. Much  of what he describes could be transplanted to any small Highland village, ours included. At first the premise of hard bitten city detective finds themselves in rural confusion might seem a little over familiar. But soon the sheer warmth of the characters wins you over and you really start to care about DCI Daley, his sergeant Brian Scott and (most of) the residents of Kinloch. I *might* have been on a long drive with tears on my cheeks whispering ‘oh poor Hamish’. I felt quite bereft when I caught up with the author and I’m really looking forward to the next in the series.

Whisky from Small Glasses By Denzil Meyrick

Lin Anderson

I came to Lin Anderson’s writing via the children’s books she has written with my dear friend Donald Mackay. If you have  younger readers then the stories of quite the most remarkable border collies I have ever met will be a treat. But Lin’s Tartan Noir books for adults are also absolutely gripping. Forensic scientist Rhona MacLeod has a troubled past (of course she does – I think it’s a prerequisite of being the main character in pretty much every novel) . The books don’t shy away from the brutality of life so if you’re a fan of cosy crime then this is not the series for you. Lin is a wonderful storyteller and the characters life stories enrich and explain the plot rather than distract from it. Descriptions of Glasgow and the surrounding areas are excellent and there are  17 books so far in this series which will give you something to sink your teeth into.

Driftnet by Lin Anderson - Audiobook - Audible.co.uk

 

That’s only 3 of my favourite authors. There’s Granite Noir from Stuart MacBride, the jolly rollicking adventure of  DCI Jack Logan and his team by JD Kirk, set around Inverness and Fort William and currently I’m listening to a new-to me author Nicola White who will be at the Crime Writers Festival in Cromarty nest year (along with my absolute author idol Anthony Horowitz -*faints a bit*)

 

What to do with a couple of nights and a day in Glasgow

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We know many of our guests bob by Glasgow on their way to or from Skye. So we thought we might offer a few suggestions to help you get the most out of your time. I’ll make out two itineraries: a) The Katie & Johnny Couple’s Choice and b) Katie & Helen Ladies’  Weekend Adventure. There is absolutely no such thing as a must-see but here are some we-sees.

a) Glasgow is the nearest place for Johnny and I to go for a proper night out and a spot of culture so we head down quite often. We’ve tried lots of different places to stay but our go-to and 100% favourite is Hotel du Vin in the West End. (last time we booked super late (after check in) and got a ridiculous upgrade but we don’t know if this would work another time).

 

The rooms are beautiful, the staff can’t do enough for you and the wee bar is perfect for post dinner nightcaps. Breakfast is extra but definitely a relaxed and delicious way to start the day

Our favourite places to eat are The Gannet, Ox & Finch and Ka Pao. We might have lunch at Òran Mór or go for their utterly wonderful Play and a Pint. They often have great gigs in the evening too so check it out as part of your planning. We visit vintage shops like The Glasgow Vintage Co and Mr Ben Retro Clothing and take pit stops in super cool places like Inn Deep a real ale pub on the banks of the River Kelvin. 

We’re working our way through the fabulous book 111 Places in Glasgow that you shouldn’t miss by Tom Shields. It’s good to have a strategy.

 

b) This weekend just gone my lovely friend Helen and I met up in Glasgow to celebrate our Coral Friendiversary ( which is now very much a thing). I travelled from Skye on the bus and we met up near Buchanan bus station at The Lauders Pub. It’s busy, cheerful and you’ll meet a lot of locals so sharpen your banter. We stayed in an air b n b in Finnieston. The area is a perfect launch pad although we should probably have researched the actual apartment we stayed in a little more. We’re not breakfast people so on Saturday morning we walked through to Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery. It was a stonker of a day and it took us about an hour as we took diversions through all the beautiful crescents and explored the park. Before we tackled the museum we had a breakfast of sorts in the café. The menu is pretty limited but we had two excellent veggie sausage and tattie scone sandwiches with a good coffee and a couple of glasses of rosé.

The museum is huge, warm and free, tho’ they do suggest a donation of £5 which is eminently reasonable. Helen and I know our limits so we just checked out the Rennie Mackintosh collection, Classical Sculptures and the dinosaurs and other historic Scottish animals. That leaves lots more to discover next time.

We then had chips and a Mean Girl cocktail in Revolution before heading off on the most wonderful Glasgow Street Art Tour  –  part of the walkingtoursin.com. company. James was a fantastic tour guide and we learned so much.

It’s a good lot of steps and they go at quite the pace so be ready for that.  We walked back to our apartment then went out for beer and pizza at Strip Joint. It’s loud, the staff are delightful and the food is very reasonably priced. They also sell remarkably niche vinyl.

On Sunday morning we had the most delicious brunch at Derby Lane, a short walk from our apartment.  I didn’t need to eat again until I got back to Skye.

 

These are just some suggestions as to what you might want to get up to. Do feel free to add your own to the comments.

 

 

 

 

 

Planning ahead – your 2024 adventures. Part 1

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This season has been a different one for us. Including closing altogether from now (October) until March 29th 2024.  There were All of the Reasons for that, but we’ve opened our diaries for 2024 (29/3-31/10) and I’m going to pop little suggestions of things to make your Skye time (and wider Scottish explorations) richer and more full of joy.

Some of you might know that I’m a super fan of the Scottish Travel Facebook pages. True there’s a lot of facecloth/top sheet/coffee creamer drama, but it’s brilliant to see people grow in confidence through the advice on the pages, try new things and sometimes improve their cultural sensitivity. This last part works both ways with both those asking the questions and locals with the know-how having things to learn.

A question I often see asked is recommendations for ‘hidden gems’, non-touristy experiences and ‘must sees’. I’ll deal with the term ‘must see’ in a later blog but….oh…how hidden gems rips my knitting. Credit to the extraordinary Gary Larson for the cartoon below.

You won’t find true hidden gems on a tourist tips page with possibly hundreds of thousands of members. And if occasionally one does slip through then it probably won’t be hidden for long. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not about keeping Skye’s beauty to ourselves, it’s about managing the flow. Also, our not so hidden spots, like the Fairy Pools and Neist Point are still gems and can still be magical if you follow the advice of your cheery (if sometimes weary) breakfast waitress.

So how do you find those places? First of all talk to people, me at breakfast, me by email once you’ve booked, your friends who’ve been to Scotland. Then read – not the Lonely Planet type guides which can be quite terrible (a shocking evening in flamenco bar in Seville comes to mind), but travel books and walk books from smaller publishing houses and /autobiography/fiction that will give you a rounded picture of our landscape and history. If you like Outlander then take the tour but don’t confuse what’s real and what isn’t – cultural sensitivity and all that.

I’m absolutely not saying that there’s anything wrong with going to the top spots, but if you’d like to take a sunset picture without sharing your space with lots of other photographers I might be your woman.

If you fancy a distillery tour that maybe isn’t the most well known one but which comes with added adventures then why not ask me?

If you’d like to take the smalls or the dog to a beach with a bit of swimming or paddling, some rockpooling and stunning views did you know you can just walk from the hotel?

Google is your friend here, but be ready to scroll on past pages of well known places to find what you’re looking for. Or why not book a personal tour, with pickup from the hotel with Tony of Skye Personal Tours? (skyepersonaltours.com) We can work together to build you an itinerary.

See you on the Travel Tips pages. I’ll be the one telling you not to turn your knickers inside out and that you pet the “hairy coos” at the risk of impalement.

Visiting somewhere different: Canna

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Every now and again I’m going to offer a suggestion as to somewhere else you can add onto your Highland adventure. There’s loads of places in Skye that aren’t on the usual lists and tick itineraries (you won’t find me posting them on here, but you might get the low down at breakfast if you’re staying with us!) – but here and there I’ll write about places you can go to next, or first.

I’ve wanted to go to Canna forever and it was an absolutely wonderful trip.

 

How we got there (and how we should have done.)

Book your ferry from Mallaig to Canna. You can’t take your car (unless you need it for business on the island – and there aren’t any roads to speak of anyway). We stayed in Fort William overnight. I’m not a huge fan tbh and we didn’t find anywhere nice to eat. We should have booked our accommodation earlier in order to get somewhere affordable in Mallaig. Anyway, that was us. We left the car in one of the free parking areas – amazing.

The ferry across stops at Eigg and Rum. We had the dog with us and there’s a great dog area inside as well as the deck. It took about 3 hours and the boy slept most of the way, except when we had a great Calmac breakfast.

 

Where we stayed.

There is a small B&B on the island but we opted for one of two static caravans operated by Isebail. It’s a proper home from home, super comfortable with brilliant views. She also runs the bunkhouse, bothy and campsite as well as crofting. I thought she was fabulous.

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What we ate.

We ordered the breakfast basket from Isebail, eggs, homemade bread and some gorgeous marmalade. We stocked up with that and some garlic salt from the honesty box before we left. Both nights we booked into Canna Café, which was one of the main reasons we’d chosen Canna for our first mini break of the summer. It’s really small, with lovely views from the outside seating (where we sat and had an Isle of Eigg beer before dinner.)1

The food is spectacular, quite the best seafood platter I’ve ever had, and I’ve had a few.

You’ll need to order that, and some of the other shellfish the day before because they collect it off the boat just before service. I had the same pudding both nights which is unheard of, but totally understandable.

We plan to go back as soon as we can, just for the prawn toasts. You absolutely need to book (and the cafe is not open every day, so check that too). We also grabbed a packing up for the ferry on the way back.

There is also a fantastic honesty shop with a great selection of food and souvenirs. Its also the place for wifi on the island.

 

What we did. 

We only had one full day in Canna and we spent that walking to see the puffins on the stacks. It’s not like some of the other islands where they are on your feet, the stacks are far away. But we saw loads with binoculars and some naked eye puffins too. The walk was beautiful although maybe a little too much for the dog – you need a basic level of fitness which the 12 year old chonker might be lacking.

There are coves to swim in, ancient sites to see, bays for a picnic and, when it’s open again, Canna House, which looks extraordinary – it belongs to the Scottish National Trust so grab your membership today!

Summary

We had the absolute best time in Canna. If you fancy something less touristy stop moaning about the crowds at the Fairy Pools and get yourself booked on the ferry. Why not combine it with a stop off in Rum to see the birds or Eigg (described by one ferry master as the party island). Before or after your Skye trip this will be an amazing adventure.

The TA Guide to Scottish Bank Notes

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The two best things about a Scottish £5 note are that a) you can buy a quiche and two cheese scones from Elanor’s honesty porch and b) they can go through the wash repeated times, be tumble dried scrunched up in a pocket and still spring out, perfectly smooth and ready to be popped into a tip box.

I recently wrote a Facebook post about Scottish money in the hope that it might help clarify confusions. Some people are so confidently wrong about things it takes your breath away.

 

Anyway, lots of people read it and said that it was useful so I thought I’d pop it up here. I will add an edit onto the end of the piece with information that people added or asked about that I didn’t think to include – the hive mind is a great thing.

So my lovely friends. There’s been a lot of confusion in the world of the internet about money in Scotland. Let me try to help in a few easy to understand steps.
• Scotland uses pounds sterling (£) like the rest of the UK
• Notes issued in Scotland look different from those issued in England.
• English notes are accepted in Scotland provided they are in current circulation.
• All Scottish notes have a shiny, plastic finish. Any papery notes are out of date. You MIGHT be able to exchange them in a bank but they may well refuse them unless you bank with them.
• You might have trouble using Scottish notes in England (particularly the South). They are uk currency but this does not mean any retailer HAS to accept them. You can swap Scottish notes for English notes at a bank.
• There is a £100 note. This may not be accepted by smaller shops. Again they don’t HAVE to accept your money so maybe split it at a bank if you have one.
As an aside tipping in cash is appreciated (a post on tipping is coming soon). Paying in cash is always appreciated (unless a place asks specifically for cards) by small businesses as it really helps us avoid significant fees from card suppliers.
EDITS:
 American chums apparently you have to beware as some US banks are trying to slip you the old papery notes. Do not accept these. Also have a firm word with them. 😡
£1  notes: there are still some of these in circulation. Again they are UK currency but you might find they are not accepted so I’d swap them in a bank if you get them.
Some ATMS charge to withdraw cash, some don’t. If you say a sign saying FREE CASH in huge letters and ‘withdrawals’ in tiny letters that means you’re safe. But you absolutely need to check what your bank is charging. Mine is wonderful and doesn’t charge me to use an ATM in another country, other contributors suggested a REVOLUT card, I’m not going to recommend it because I have no personal experience but you might want to check it out.
Post Offices will change your money and accept out of date currency but don’t expect the amazing Eve in the dinky Carbost PO to have a grand in Scottish crispies handy to exchange for you.
Danske Bank notes from Northen Ireland are also UK currency. They look very ‘foreign’ (as it were) and you might need to be prepared to explain what they are. Again I’d recommend a swap at a bank in order to save yourself any trouble and not fluster your wait staff.
Some retail outlets and places to eat  do not accept cash at all  now. So definitely have a card in your wallet. If you use Amex bring it with you. More places than you think accept it and, let’s face it, it doesn’t take up any room.
In conclusion (like a proper year 10 essay),  check your money before you set off, have a debit/credit card that you know works in the UK and have a brilliant time. Buying local is absolutely best, tipping in cash too (another post on tipping is brewing in my mind right this minute).  You can be utterly spendalicious in Scotland or work to a strict budget and still have the best time. Fine dining at Edinbane Lodge or a swift pizza in Caberfeidh, glorious jewellery from Love from Skye or a Highland Cow fridge magnet from Tippicanoe – all memories to be treasured once you’re home.

 

Carbost Community Shop

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Quite often people ask me what it’s like to live in Skye. It’s actually quite hard to explain or describe but the Village Shop (just a hop, skip and a three mile jaunt down the road) provides an excellent illustration. Bought by the local community just before the pandemic the shop has become a centre for the community. A stumpy little white building from the outside, inside it is full of the most amazing things. I cook a lot but I’d never used, or even heard of Ras El Hanout, now I chuck into pretty much everything.

It is run by a mixture of volunteers and paid workers, all local and all ready to help you pick some good stuff for your sandwiches (if you’ve resisted Elanor’s packed lunch option) , some local beer or gin or some of the most extra ordinary hot snax you’ve ever encountered (apparently they’re off of TikTok , all I know is that they are addictive and possibly dissolve the inside of your mouth).

The ethos of the shop is sustainability, whether you use the filling stations for your macaroni, buy one of the ethical and chic bags (designed by Ash who works in the shop – and is also responsible for the Takis – not all heroes wear capes) or try one of the shampoo/conditioner bars you’re doing a tiny bit to help recover our planet. And lots of tiny bits in lots of tiny shops makes a difference.

So, yes, we are very proud of the Carbost Community Shop. And tomorrow I get my training so I can be a ‘substitute till lady* when people are away. I’m really quite excited.

Carbost village shop © Dave Fergusson :: Geograph Britain and Ireland

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Adventures on The Misty Isle Boat Trip

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This week the intrepid trio set off to Elgol to take a trip we’ve wanted to do for ages. Adrian at All Things Cuillin sings the praises of Seamus and his crew and we wanted to see for ourselves. We were super lucky with the weather which did help but  I can see how this would be a great day out even in mizzly conditions.

Elgol is about 1 1/2 hours drive for someone who doesn’t know the roads. When you leave the main road through Broadford there are stretches of singles track, some interesting bends in the road and some impressive potholes. But with care and a couple of deep breaths you can get there and it is 100% worth it, even if you don’t take the boat trip. You go through Torrin where the fabulous Amy’s Place café can stock you up with cakes, gifts and great coffee, and when you get to Elgol there is a bistro (check openings and make sure you book) a great shop with snacks and a seafood truck. We can definitely recommend the Elgolian, a squat lobster buttie with delicious Marie Rose sauce.

Once on the boat Seamus tells you tales of the island; how the Cuillin got their name, the origin of Drambuie, the derring do of Charles Edward Stuart and Flora MacDonald.

The story of Cuchullin

The scenery is stunning and you get a unique view of the Cuillin and the Small Isles.

The whole trip is dog friendly and if your dog has little legs then they can be carried, like Bonnie Prince Sausage himself, up the steps at the landing point at Loch Coruisk.

With the wind in my ears.....

You can opt to stay longer than the 1 hour 30 minutes and catch a later boat back to Elgol. But be aware that this is a location in the heart of the Cuillin. While there is no climbing necessary to get about the loch, there is uneven terrain, stepping stones, some impressive boggy bits (the dog could tell you all about that) and some slopey negotiations.

Paths in places b

So a basic level of fitness and some proper walking shoes or boots are a must. I’ll say the bit about the footwear again. Wear something sturdy and supportive. Really. The area just where the boat drops off gives beautiful views, so if you don’t fancy a hike it’s lovely just to sit about and look at the sea.

 

Loch Coruisk is stunning. The Gaelic Coire Uisg means cauldron of waters and this long, narrow freshwater lake was glowing the most ridiculous shade of blue on our visit.

 

Be aware there are lots of  standing lochans so take your Smidge if you go any time past May. You really feel like you’re in amongst the mountains, not comprehending how huge they are til a couple ahead of you provide a scale. The gabbro rock is grippy which does help a lot. We walked for about two miles then turned about when 3 pairs of little legs started to tire.

On the way back we were made a great cup of tea accompanied by tasty shortbread. We saw a lovely herd of seals, sunbathing like contented grey bananas but we were too early in the season to be treated to dolphins, sea eagles or even whales. We will have to go again.

You can also walk to Loch Coruisk, a challenging hike where you have to deal with the Bad Step (clue’s  in the name people). You’ll need someone else to tell you about that tho.

Thanks to all at Misty Isle Boat Trips. We highly recommend you book as far in advance as you can.

Home – Misty Isle Boat Trips

Sealladh Na Mara, Elgol, Isle Of Skye 
01471 866288

The Talisker Experience

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Johnny, Elanor and I were delighted to be invited to preview the new visitors’ centre at Talisker Distillery, just 3 miles down the road. We were welcomed by Louise and Cameron, the new barman, made two of us wonderful Talisker cocktails (and one of us a coke, the driver, the hero). The centre is a wonderful space, the bar has the shape of a boat and the whole place is beautifully blue and super airy. The windows look out onto Loch Harport, hopefully there will be dolphins!

We then went to look at the tasting rooms. The main tasting rooms are for people on tours. A group have a super knowledgeable guide take them round the distillery then introduce them to a three of the signature drams of Talisker.

For those of you who’ve done a lot of tours before then there is the extraordinary Made By The Sea experience. You don’t take the tour but instead go to the most beautiful room and experience a tasting. I’m not going to post any pictures of this bit so as not to spoil the surprise. But suffice to say we’ve already decided to book this as a little staff treat.

Then there is the Cask Pour experience for the connoisseur. Pour your own dram straight from the cask, many of them will not be released, so you get a unique insight into the Talisker flavours.

Then you can pop to the shop. There’s naturally the full range of whisky, for all palates and pockets, a surprisingly chic clothing range, some brilliant books and a selection of eco friendly gifts – Talisker toothbrush anyone?

We had a lovely evening  – our friends in Talisker looked after us so well. 100% recommend – booking is only online and things get busy so reserve your tour or tasting NOW, you can book 6 months in advance and it would be such a shame if you missed out.9

Being in Skye, not on Skye. How our wonderful island helps foster our mental health.

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I’ve covered tick box tourism  in a previous blog, and I do understand that the day trip to Skye works for some people, but I’ve been thinking a lot about a question someone asked me a while back.

Why do you always write IN Skye, not ON Skye, what’s the difference? Well first of all, here’s the technical explanation.

We use “on the island” when we refer to it as a piece of land surrounded by water.

We use “in the island” when we refer to it as a territory or place with its own settings, circumstances, environment, etc.

When you stay with us you are part of Skye life. And it’s good for you. Visit Scotland took a survey about emotional wellbeing and travel. The findings are extensive (www.visitscotland.org/binaries/content/assets/dot-org/pdf/research-papers/about-our-visitors/insights-emotional-benefits.pdf)

I’ve taken a few things from it which can be connected to being in Skye.

After the pandemic many people (and I absolutely count myself in this category) are more anxious, more concerned for the future, and feeling directionless. The current crises in the world have only compounded this. So those of us lucky enough to travel are looking for certain things to support us. I have chosen 3 from the list that I think staying with us and being in Skye can connect with.

Looking for a challenge:  whether you’re an experienced climber taking on the Cuillin, a family booked in with Skye Adventure for an afternoon canyoning or a wee middle aged woman with short legs and dubious fitness making her way up Brothers’ Point (guess which one is my challenge?) there’s absolutely something to take you that little bit further.

Opportunities for awe: from sunrises to sunsets, island views to tiny flowers, dolphins, sea eagles, otters or those tiny furry caterpillars so intent on their scurrying journey, there’s always something to make you pause. And pausing is good for the soul.

Boosts confidence: Visit Scotland’s report suggests the act f indulging in travel can be an empowering act of self care. This is rather a fancy way of saying that travel helps you live in the moment and that is good for you. Trying new foods, speaking to people who live in Skye, having a pop at the Gaelic pronunciation or trying out your Duolingo skills,  going to music sessions, just being in a new place. It’ll help you be more you.

These last few years have really taken it out of us all. Let us help you fill your little cup right up.

 

 

We’re family friendly, but what does that mean?

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As we set off into 2023 I was updating the website. Cheerily typed ‘a dog and family friendly b&b’… then realised I needed to think this through. (More on the dogs in another blog)

There’s a whole world of difference between places to stay where you’re allowed to bring your children and places like the Taigh Ailean where we offer a family friendly welcome.

I asked my friends on Facebook, and the friends of the TA on the business page,  what they thought; for they are wise and lovely. The response was pretty universal. Number 1 is the attitude of the team. And I can assure you that Jean, Elanor and all of the people you might come across during your stay will do everything they can to help you and your family have the absolute best time. Then there’s the little things we can do. We already have some fabulous bedding to make the stay extra cosy, nightlights if you need them, washable nappy bags that handle even the smelliest of poos. There are fairy doors and story books, high chairs, mini me breakfast portions and cutlery for small hands.

 

When you book with us you’ll receive a sheet with my recommendations for family friendly places to eat and things to do, to make sure that you can book your adventures well in advance and make certain you don’t miss out. (EDIT: Thankyou to those people who’ve messaged me, but respectfully these are for our guests, please ask you accommodation provider for their recommendations).

Suggestions from my Facebook consultants include making bird-spotting sheets for breakfast time and scavenger hunts for filling in during your Skye adventures. From loo seat boosters to little hats and gloves for emergency chilly days, I’m on it. Because we really do care about your family holiday.

Taigh Ailean Hotel
Portnalong
Isle of Skye
IV47 8SL

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