Taigh Ailean Hotel

Accommodation near Carbost

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Visiting somewhere different: Canna

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Every now and again I’m going to offer a suggestion as to somewhere else you can add onto your Highland adventure. There’s loads of places in Skye that aren’t on the usual lists and tick itineraries (you won’t find me posting them on here, but you might get the low down at breakfast if you’re staying with us!) – but here and there I’ll write about places you can go to next, or first.

I’ve wanted to go to Canna forever and it was an absolutely wonderful trip.

 

How we got there (and how we should have done.)

Book your ferry from Mallaig to Canna. You can’t take your car (unless you need it for business on the island – and there aren’t any roads to speak of anyway). We stayed in Fort William overnight. I’m not a huge fan tbh and we didn’t find anywhere nice to eat. We should have booked our accommodation earlier in order to get somewhere affordable in Mallaig. Anyway, that was us. We left the car in one of the free parking areas – amazing.

The ferry across stops at Eigg and Rum. We had the dog with us and there’s a great dog area inside as well as the deck. It took about 3 hours and the boy slept most of the way, except when we had a great Calmac breakfast.

 

Where we stayed.

There is a small B&B on the island but we opted for one of two static caravans operated by Isebail. It’s a proper home from home, super comfortable with brilliant views. She also runs the bunkhouse, bothy and campsite as well as crofting. I thought she was fabulous.

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What we ate.

We ordered the breakfast basket from Isebail, eggs, homemade bread and some gorgeous marmalade. We stocked up with that and some garlic salt from the honesty box before we left. Both nights we booked into Canna Café, which was one of the main reasons we’d chosen Canna for our first mini break of the summer. It’s really small, with lovely views from the outside seating (where we sat and had an Isle of Eigg beer before dinner.)1

The food is spectacular, quite the best seafood platter I’ve ever had, and I’ve had a few.

You’ll need to order that, and some of the other shellfish the day before because they collect it off the boat just before service. I had the same pudding both nights which is unheard of, but totally understandable.

We plan to go back as soon as we can, just for the prawn toasts. You absolutely need to book (and the cafe is not open every day, so check that too). We also grabbed a packing up for the ferry on the way back.

There is also a fantastic honesty shop with a great selection of food and souvenirs. Its also the place for wifi on the island.

 

What we did. 

We only had one full day in Canna and we spent that walking to see the puffins on the stacks. It’s not like some of the other islands where they are on your feet, the stacks are far away. But we saw loads with binoculars and some naked eye puffins too. The walk was beautiful although maybe a little too much for the dog – you need a basic level of fitness which the 12 year old chonker might be lacking.

There are coves to swim in, ancient sites to see, bays for a picnic and, when it’s open again, Canna House, which looks extraordinary – it belongs to the Scottish National Trust so grab your membership today!

Summary

We had the absolute best time in Canna. If you fancy something less touristy stop moaning about the crowds at the Fairy Pools and get yourself booked on the ferry. Why not combine it with a stop off in Rum to see the birds or Eigg (described by one ferry master as the party island). Before or after your Skye trip this will be an amazing adventure.

The TA Guide to Scottish Bank Notes

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The two best things about a Scottish £5 note are that a) you can buy a quiche and two cheese scones from Elanor’s honesty porch and b) they can go through the wash repeated times, be tumble dried scrunched up in a pocket and still spring out, perfectly smooth and ready to be popped into a tip box.

I recently wrote a Facebook post about Scottish money in the hope that it might help clarify confusions. Some people are so confidently wrong about things it takes your breath away.

 

Anyway, lots of people read it and said that it was useful so I thought I’d pop it up here. I will add an edit onto the end of the piece with information that people added or asked about that I didn’t think to include – the hive mind is a great thing.

So my lovely friends. There’s been a lot of confusion in the world of the internet about money in Scotland. Let me try to help in a few easy to understand steps.
• Scotland uses pounds sterling (£) like the rest of the UK
• Notes issued in Scotland look different from those issued in England.
• English notes are accepted in Scotland provided they are in current circulation.
• All Scottish notes have a shiny, plastic finish. Any papery notes are out of date. You MIGHT be able to exchange them in a bank but they may well refuse them unless you bank with them.
• You might have trouble using Scottish notes in England (particularly the South). They are uk currency but this does not mean any retailer HAS to accept them. You can swap Scottish notes for English notes at a bank.
• There is a £100 note. This may not be accepted by smaller shops. Again they don’t HAVE to accept your money so maybe split it at a bank if you have one.
As an aside tipping in cash is appreciated (a post on tipping is coming soon). Paying in cash is always appreciated (unless a place asks specifically for cards) by small businesses as it really helps us avoid significant fees from card suppliers.
EDITS:
 American chums apparently you have to beware as some US banks are trying to slip you the old papery notes. Do not accept these. Also have a firm word with them. 😡
£1  notes: there are still some of these in circulation. Again they are UK currency but you might find they are not accepted so I’d swap them in a bank if you get them.
Some ATMS charge to withdraw cash, some don’t. If you say a sign saying FREE CASH in huge letters and ‘withdrawals’ in tiny letters that means you’re safe. But you absolutely need to check what your bank is charging. Mine is wonderful and doesn’t charge me to use an ATM in another country, other contributors suggested a REVOLUT card, I’m not going to recommend it because I have no personal experience but you might want to check it out.
Post Offices will change your money and accept out of date currency but don’t expect the amazing Eve in the dinky Carbost PO to have a grand in Scottish crispies handy to exchange for you.
Danske Bank notes from Northen Ireland are also UK currency. They look very ‘foreign’ (as it were) and you might need to be prepared to explain what they are. Again I’d recommend a swap at a bank in order to save yourself any trouble and not fluster your wait staff.
Some retail outlets and places to eat  do not accept cash at all  now. So definitely have a card in your wallet. If you use Amex bring it with you. More places than you think accept it and, let’s face it, it doesn’t take up any room.
In conclusion (like a proper year 10 essay),  check your money before you set off, have a debit/credit card that you know works in the UK and have a brilliant time. Buying local is absolutely best, tipping in cash too (another post on tipping is brewing in my mind right this minute).  You can be utterly spendalicious in Scotland or work to a strict budget and still have the best time. Fine dining at Edinbane Lodge or a swift pizza in Caberfeidh, glorious jewellery from Love from Skye or a Highland Cow fridge magnet from Tippicanoe – all memories to be treasured once you’re home.

 

Carbost Community Shop

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Quite often people ask me what it’s like to live in Skye. It’s actually quite hard to explain or describe but the Village Shop (just a hop, skip and a three mile jaunt down the road) provides an excellent illustration. Bought by the local community just before the pandemic the shop has become a centre for the community. A stumpy little white building from the outside, inside it is full of the most amazing things. I cook a lot but I’d never used, or even heard of Ras El Hanout, now I chuck into pretty much everything.

It is run by a mixture of volunteers and paid workers, all local and all ready to help you pick some good stuff for your sandwiches (if you’ve resisted Elanor’s packed lunch option) , some local beer or gin or some of the most extra ordinary hot snax you’ve ever encountered (apparently they’re off of TikTok , all I know is that they are addictive and possibly dissolve the inside of your mouth).

The ethos of the shop is sustainability, whether you use the filling stations for your macaroni, buy one of the ethical and chic bags (designed by Ash who works in the shop – and is also responsible for the Takis – not all heroes wear capes) or try one of the shampoo/conditioner bars you’re doing a tiny bit to help recover our planet. And lots of tiny bits in lots of tiny shops makes a difference.

So, yes, we are very proud of the Carbost Community Shop. And tomorrow I get my training so I can be a ‘substitute till lady* when people are away. I’m really quite excited.

Carbost village shop © Dave Fergusson :: Geograph Britain and Ireland

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Adventures on The Misty Isle Boat Trip

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This week the intrepid trio set off to Elgol to take a trip we’ve wanted to do for ages. Adrian at All Things Cuillin sings the praises of Seamus and his crew and we wanted to see for ourselves. We were super lucky with the weather which did help but  I can see how this would be a great day out even in mizzly conditions.

Elgol is about 1 1/2 hours drive for someone who doesn’t know the roads. When you leave the main road through Broadford there are stretches of singles track, some interesting bends in the road and some impressive potholes. But with care and a couple of deep breaths you can get there and it is 100% worth it, even if you don’t take the boat trip. You go through Torrin where the fabulous Amy’s Place café can stock you up with cakes, gifts and great coffee, and when you get to Elgol there is a bistro (check openings and make sure you book) a great shop with snacks and a seafood truck. We can definitely recommend the Elgolian, a squat lobster buttie with delicious Marie Rose sauce.

Once on the boat Seamus tells you tales of the island; how the Cuillin got their name, the origin of Drambuie, the derring do of Charles Edward Stuart and Flora MacDonald.

The story of Cuchullin

The scenery is stunning and you get a unique view of the Cuillin and the Small Isles.

The whole trip is dog friendly and if your dog has little legs then they can be carried, like Bonnie Prince Sausage himself, up the steps at the landing point at Loch Coruisk.

With the wind in my ears.....

You can opt to stay longer than the 1 hour 30 minutes and catch a later boat back to Elgol. But be aware that this is a location in the heart of the Cuillin. While there is no climbing necessary to get about the loch, there is uneven terrain, stepping stones, some impressive boggy bits (the dog could tell you all about that) and some slopey negotiations.

Paths in places b

So a basic level of fitness and some proper walking shoes or boots are a must. I’ll say the bit about the footwear again. Wear something sturdy and supportive. Really. The area just where the boat drops off gives beautiful views, so if you don’t fancy a hike it’s lovely just to sit about and look at the sea.

 

Loch Coruisk is stunning. The Gaelic Coire Uisg means cauldron of waters and this long, narrow freshwater lake was glowing the most ridiculous shade of blue on our visit.

 

Be aware there are lots of  standing lochans so take your Smidge if you go any time past May. You really feel like you’re in amongst the mountains, not comprehending how huge they are til a couple ahead of you provide a scale. The gabbro rock is grippy which does help a lot. We walked for about two miles then turned about when 3 pairs of little legs started to tire.

On the way back we were made a great cup of tea accompanied by tasty shortbread. We saw a lovely herd of seals, sunbathing like contented grey bananas but we were too early in the season to be treated to dolphins, sea eagles or even whales. We will have to go again.

You can also walk to Loch Coruisk, a challenging hike where you have to deal with the Bad Step (clue’s  in the name people). You’ll need someone else to tell you about that tho.

Thanks to all at Misty Isle Boat Trips. We highly recommend you book as far in advance as you can.

Home – Misty Isle Boat Trips

Sealladh Na Mara, Elgol, Isle Of Skye 
01471 866288

The Talisker Experience

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Johnny, Elanor and I were delighted to be invited to preview the new visitors’ centre at Talisker Distillery, just 3 miles down the road. We were welcomed by Louise and Cameron, the new barman, made two of us wonderful Talisker cocktails (and one of us a coke, the driver, the hero). The centre is a wonderful space, the bar has the shape of a boat and the whole place is beautifully blue and super airy. The windows look out onto Loch Harport, hopefully there will be dolphins!

We then went to look at the tasting rooms. The main tasting rooms are for people on tours. A group have a super knowledgeable guide take them round the distillery then introduce them to a three of the signature drams of Talisker.

For those of you who’ve done a lot of tours before then there is the extraordinary Made By The Sea experience. You don’t take the tour but instead go to the most beautiful room and experience a tasting. I’m not going to post any pictures of this bit so as not to spoil the surprise. But suffice to say we’ve already decided to book this as a little staff treat.

Then there is the Cask Pour experience for the connoisseur. Pour your own dram straight from the cask, many of them will not be released, so you get a unique insight into the Talisker flavours.

Then you can pop to the shop. There’s naturally the full range of whisky, for all palates and pockets, a surprisingly chic clothing range, some brilliant books and a selection of eco friendly gifts – Talisker toothbrush anyone?

We had a lovely evening  – our friends in Talisker looked after us so well. 100% recommend – booking is only online and things get busy so reserve your tour or tasting NOW, you can book 6 months in advance and it would be such a shame if you missed out.9

Being in Skye, not on Skye. How our wonderful island helps foster our mental health.

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I’ve covered tick box tourism  in a previous blog, and I do understand that the day trip to Skye works for some people, but I’ve been thinking a lot about a question someone asked me a while back.

Why do you always write IN Skye, not ON Skye, what’s the difference? Well first of all, here’s the technical explanation.

We use “on the island” when we refer to it as a piece of land surrounded by water.

We use “in the island” when we refer to it as a territory or place with its own settings, circumstances, environment, etc.

When you stay with us you are part of Skye life. And it’s good for you. Visit Scotland took a survey about emotional wellbeing and travel. The findings are extensive (www.visitscotland.org/binaries/content/assets/dot-org/pdf/research-papers/about-our-visitors/insights-emotional-benefits.pdf)

I’ve taken a few things from it which can be connected to being in Skye.

After the pandemic many people (and I absolutely count myself in this category) are more anxious, more concerned for the future, and feeling directionless. The current crises in the world have only compounded this. So those of us lucky enough to travel are looking for certain things to support us. I have chosen 3 from the list that I think staying with us and being in Skye can connect with.

Looking for a challenge:  whether you’re an experienced climber taking on the Cuillin, a family booked in with Skye Adventure for an afternoon canyoning or a wee middle aged woman with short legs and dubious fitness making her way up Brothers’ Point (guess which one is my challenge?) there’s absolutely something to take you that little bit further.

Opportunities for awe: from sunrises to sunsets, island views to tiny flowers, dolphins, sea eagles, otters or those tiny furry caterpillars so intent on their scurrying journey, there’s always something to make you pause. And pausing is good for the soul.

Boosts confidence: Visit Scotland’s report suggests the act f indulging in travel can be an empowering act of self care. This is rather a fancy way of saying that travel helps you live in the moment and that is good for you. Trying new foods, speaking to people who live in Skye, having a pop at the Gaelic pronunciation or trying out your Duolingo skills,  going to music sessions, just being in a new place. It’ll help you be more you.

These last few years have really taken it out of us all. Let us help you fill your little cup right up.

 

 

We’re family friendly, but what does that mean?

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As we set off into 2023 I was updating the website. Cheerily typed ‘a dog and family friendly b&b’… then realised I needed to think this through. (More on the dogs in another blog)

There’s a whole world of difference between places to stay where you’re allowed to bring your children and places like the Taigh Ailean where we offer a family friendly welcome.

I asked my friends on Facebook, and the friends of the TA on the business page,  what they thought; for they are wise and lovely. The response was pretty universal. Number 1 is the attitude of the team. And I can assure you that Jean, Elanor and all of the people you might come across during your stay will do everything they can to help you and your family have the absolute best time. Then there’s the little things we can do. We already have some fabulous bedding to make the stay extra cosy, nightlights if you need them, washable nappy bags that handle even the smelliest of poos. There are fairy doors and story books, high chairs, mini me breakfast portions and cutlery for small hands.

 

When you book with us you’ll receive a sheet with my recommendations for family friendly places to eat and things to do, to make sure that you can book your adventures well in advance and make certain you don’t miss out. (EDIT: Thankyou to those people who’ve messaged me, but respectfully these are for our guests, please ask you accommodation provider for their recommendations).

Suggestions from my Facebook consultants include making bird-spotting sheets for breakfast time and scavenger hunts for filling in during your Skye adventures. From loo seat boosters to little hats and gloves for emergency chilly days, I’m on it. Because we really do care about your family holiday.

Day Walks in the Isle of Skye

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I’ve got a new book – Day walks on the Isle of Skye by Helen and Paul Webster.

It’s really excellent – I’d thoroughly recommend it for those of you who want to walk for a full day and have the energy for a ” good walk”. The walks themselves are clearly set out, with a realistic description. What I particularly like is that although it includes the well known walks, it also takes you to more remote places.

Even in the 40 Walks on Skye book which a lot of people use, and which is excellent, there are many walks where you want meet another soul (so don’t believe all the Skye is crammed you won’t be able to breathe nonsense you might read from time to time.)

Add in the physical challenge of the walks and you’ll be guaranteed some grand days appreciating the peace and beauty of our island. The photographs are inspiring and the maps will ensure you are at no risk of getting lost.

 

If I’m honest, the dug’s days of going for 7 hour walks are over, the little legs, the grey hair and the expanding tummy mean that we both take it more gently these days. But I shall be getting a few more of these fabulous guides in for our more energetic guests.

Stars, so many stars. And the Aurora too

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Although it says on our website, pretty much the first line, that we’re remote I’m not sure everyone quite gets it. Today I had to explain to a super lovely gentleman that the nearest Uber might be Glasgow, and I’m a tad downhearted when sometimes we get marked 5* for everything except 4* for location cos we’re ‘a bit out the way’.

That’s the joy of it, you see. Being here at the end of the peninsula. Not far from the Fairy Pools, Glenbrittle and the walk-in to many of the Cuillin Munros.

And the sky….. you wouldn’t believe it til you’re here. This last few weeks it’s been aurora -ing its head off. Many of the photos you see are taken with long exposures and things don’t look the same when you’re under it – but this week the greens and pillars hae been visible to the naked eye. Photo of the aurora and the hotel courtesy of the wonderful Arlyn Thursby – from Glendale Self Catering Cottages.

I love the stars even more tho. Taking the dog for a late night potter I can see the actual Milky Way – and my app Sky View Lite shows me how wild the ancients were when they named the constellations  (Why yes Claudius Ptolemy, that is absolutely a man carrying a water jar). Photo from Fiskavaig to the Outer Hebrides and Outer Space by Andrew Rae Photography.

So take the road less travelled. Do something a little different than just ticking off the Big 6 of Skye. Stay with us. There’s even a star book in your room for those clear nights.

In which I realise how much I miss Americans

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Thinking today about how we’ve had a year without US (and Canadian- ❤️ Bitsy) guests. It’s been a season of home grown visitors which has been lovely.
But oh, my American buddies, I miss your sheer joy at being here. Your eternal quests for ancestry, your delight at eggs with bright orange yolks, the fact that I constantly forget that you and I mean different things by *pants* (so when you ask me if I ever wear pants to work expect a sharp intake of breath), the book recommendations you give me, the way you sing Amazing Grace while driving the single track roads. American guests have comforted me when I sobbed the morning the Brexit vote came out, ‘made’ me drink more tequila than is good for me, showed me bits of Skye I didn’t know were there, gifted me some some highly dubious fashion items, shared vow renewals and proposals, welcomed Johnny and me in New York, spread the word, recommended us to their mates to help us grow our business and blessed me with so many friends that I’m certain will be with me for life.
So here’s to you, chums across the water. We  can’t wait to see you again. For now here is a wonderful memory from 2018 when our Yoga Ladies took us for New York pizza.

Taigh Ailean Hotel
Portnalong
Isle of Skye
IV47 8SL

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