In which I think about driving on Skye

‘This is my home, this is my soup’ – in praise of simple things.

February 24, 2026 by katie Leave a Comment

If you’ve had a long drive to get to us, or if you’ve had a big day adventuring before you check in, or if you just want to put your ‘jamas on as you settle into your bedroom then you’re the reason we decided last year to offer soup and sandwiches on the day of your arrival. Available in the sitting room, the dining room or in your bedroom. This photo was taken by one of our guests.

All the soup is homemade, gluten free and vegan. It’s extra tasty because of all the fresh ingredients roasted in it.

The bread is thick and fresh and the fillings have been thought through carefully (you get to choose from a wide range). Here’s the hammy ham just out of the oven.

It’s absolutely not fancy but it’s just the ticket. As one of our guests said “soup is the welcoming food. You open your door and say ‘here is my home, here is my soup'”. I like that very much.

Inverness – city of dreams?

December 2, 2025 by katie Leave a Comment

A lot of our guests arrive with us from Inverness or perhaps it’s the next destination on their travels. I have the feeling that quite a few of them are disappointed with their stay in the Big City so I decided to pop a few ideas down here to help with planning (as you know I love a plan).

The city is a great launch pad for exploring the Highlands – even as far as Skye (tho in my opinion the 6 hour round trip should only be considered if you’re really short of time and really want to see Skye’s Greatest Hits. If this is you, and you can budget for it, then an organised tour is probably best). But what to do when you’re actually in Inverness?

Places to stay. There are a huge variety of places to stay from swanky apartments to little houses tucked into slightly dodgy streets behind the co-op, from cosy bed and breakfasts to chain hotels. Places we have stayed and enjoyed include Druid House Bed & Breakfast (delightful host, great breakfast), River Ness self catering apartments (stunning views of the river, quite swanky) and (out of the main tourist season) the AC Marriot. As an aside the Marriot is dog friendly and has a great bar area with fabby, good value snacks (pictured) and banging Negronis if that’s your bag. Also if the weather is nice you can sit outside by the river.

Wandering about:

We are very excited that the castle is due to open next year. Our first selfie as Highland residents (now lost in the midst of digital cobwebs) was in front of the castle, covered in scaffolding, in 2014. It looks like it’s going to be absolutely beautiful inside and out with stunning views of the Ness from the gardens and an interior rooted in tradition and local culture while also looking forward to a Highland area with real future potential.

Walking along the river at dusk is an absolute joy. There are sparkly lights, food trucks and a general buzzy vibe.

The city itself is a little unremarkable but if you’re a fan of strange graffiti (is it just me?) life will be good.

There are some very lovely independent shops that are worth looking out for. We love

Judith Glue – Scottish crafts and clothes. The main shop is in Kirkwall Orkney but this one is cute if very spendy.

Isle of Skye Candle Company – you’ll probably have done all your candle shopping in the Portree branch of this store while waiting for your amazing Gasta pizza, but one can never have too many candles, right?

Leakey’s bookshop – situated in a deconsecrated Gaelic church, this ultimately instagramable second hand book shop is the largest in Scotland. If they were serious about cosy they’d have seats in the corners but it’s still rather lovely to have an open fire.

The Highland Whisky Shop – a family owned, exceptionally well stocked shop. The staff are super helpful and they often have special events.

Rebel Row: Prickly Thistle – ethical, sustainable clothing for women, made by women. The clothes are quite out there – but why not? Check their website for events.

Inverness Coffee Roasting Co. – amazing coffee to drink and buy. Always our first stop for an expresso to start up the shopping experience.

If you’re looking for highland dress, kilt hire, a bespoke kilt making service (when our own KiltQuine Leona is booked up obviously) then head to Highland House of Fraser . They’re really kind and patient and will answer all your questions and make sure your kilt is at the right length. You can also pop into the Scottish Kiltmaker visitor centre where you can learn about the history of tartans and see craftsfolk in action.

Known as the ‘Saville Row of Highland Dress’ Chisholms Highland Dress is an excellent destination for kilthire and custom made kilts. They do prefer appointments so check their website.

Let’s just take a minute to admire my kilt shall we? (made by Leona)

The Victorian Market – with over 30 wee businesses inside, the newly refurbished Victorian Market is a joy. It’s twinkly and bright and a great place to go if it’s cold or wet outside. Also if it isn’t. It’s also our favourite place to eat at any time of day and to grab a coffee.

The Food & Drink Hall is always busy with locals and tourists alike. Over the Christmas period there’s carols and live music and DJs and when we’ve been in the summer there’s often live local musicians. There is a huge variety of food stalls representing world cuisine. Our favourites so far are The Bad Girl Bakery for super coffee and cake (tho I wish they’d do a veggie sausage roll or pasty), Salt N Fire – great vegan street food and The Mart for absolutely banging burgers both meaty and not meaty.

For those of you who like a lil stiffener while shopping there’s a licensed bar area called Moonshine.

We haven’t had a chance to try any other stalls but they are on the list for the next Big Shop.

Places to Eat & Drink

There is a huge variety of restaurants, bars and pubs in Inverness. As always my advice is ‘if it’s bookable and you want to go, book it’. We haven’t been everywhere and some places we didn’t like but we’re not going to mention those here. If you’re staying with us and you want to check somewhere before you book it, just drop us an email.

Places we know we like:

HouHou Mie– the only things I miss about living in a town are a)being able to buy socks at an affordable price, not ones artisanally knitted out of pine martin’s eyelashes and b) a sit down Chinese. Hou Hou Mie is deservedly very popular and you’ll need to book in advance. It makes my taste buds sing with joy to eat there.

Rocpool (the one on the river/bridge not the Reserve) – superb fresh, Scottish-with-a-twist menu. A bit treat-y but worth it for a celebration if budgets allow.

Pizza Express – yeah yeah I know. But pizza is my death row food and I love this chain. Don’t go thinking you can walk in here tho, book.

Girvans – fantastic for breakfast/brunch and patisserie to die for (there’s a theme developing here).

XOKO Bakehouse and Cantina – if you’ve never had a banana bread latte have you even lived? Delicious baking too.

The White House – smart bistro, excellent for weekend bottomless brunches, lassies who lunch, lads who lunch, non binary lunchers too. They have cocktail masterclasses and a lovely light menu.

The RiverHouse – smart restaurant with great views serving excellent seafood. Good for a special occasion or a bit of romance.

Whisky & Rye: the place that introduced Johnny to a dram and a pony. Cheery pub food and a great malt selection.

MacGregor’s – cheery pub food and great live music. Last time we went the staff were the most delightful humans you could wish to encounter.

Johnny Foxes – a proper local knees up. Live music, boozy hens and stags, sticky floors and happy people. We’ve not eaten here so check internet reviews.

Prime – if you’re a seafood and steak kinda gal/guy/chum

Before you get to Inverness check what’s on at Eden Court. They often have great bands, both Scottish and further afield. Will Young (my boyfriend in my head. No, Listen… he’s not going to marry me anyway so it doesn’t matter that he’s gay. Sad times.) played last year. Jeanio and I were so close to the front.

So that’s some of my thoughts on Sneckie. If you think I’ve missed something out just pop it in the comments. It took us a long time to love the city but now we do – very much.

Planning ahead for your meals.

July 20, 2025 by katie 1 Comment

I am the planniest planner you ever did see. It’s in my DNA. So I’ve been rather perturbed by the amount of grumblings and mumblings about people potentially starving to death on their two day visit to Skye. I know grumbling is what social media is for but honestly it’s all so unnecessary.

Here’s a couple of salutary tales:

Tale 1: it was my birthday recently. Not a big birthday (that’s next year) but I informed Johnny about a month before that he was in charge of marking the event. Realising this was quite important, possibly a matter of life and death, he was straight onto booking us a nice dinner in Portree. Not the *fancy fancy* places, it was several months late for that, but a very nice restaurant with an excellent wine list. Now I think that your holiday to Skye is a very important event for you so I would assume that booking places in advance, if that’s what matters to you, would make a lot of sense.

I didn’t take any pictures of my food but here’s the kilt KiltQuine made me as my birthday gift from Johnny. I may blog about it next time (in my total failure of consistency)

Tale 2. We recently found ourselves staying the night in Dunfermline on the way back from a trip. It was a Friday night and I really wanted to eat at an Indian restaurant I had heard great reviews about. I phoned up about 4pm. Could I get a table? Of course not. Or in fact anywhere else. We landed up just swerving into Nandos (love a Great Imitator burger) before that too totally filled up by 6pm. Now Dunfermline is a busy, bustling city with countless restaurants – if I can’t get booked in for dinner there with a couple of hours notice then it’s unlikely to work in Portree…

What we do to help:

+ when you book we immediately send you an as-up-to-date-as-we-can list of restaurants, including which you can book and which are walk-in. We can help you plan your food around your itinerary. So if you’re having a light breakfast before exploring the peninsula then maybe Cafe Cuil for brunch would work for you.

+ we offer you soup and sandwiches on the day of your arrival. Tasty homemade soup and your choice from delicious options such as home roasted ham, homemade beetroot hummus and tuna mayonnaise. So you don’t have to go out again in the evening if you want to explore the beautiful local walks, nap in front of the fire/in the sunshine, or have a beer.

Here’s some ham, just out of the oven, ready to become Eggs Benedict or a ham salad sandwich.

+ there’s a refrigerator and a microwave in the guest dining room. We have a list of shops on the island where you can buy things for a picnic dinner and we’re usually able to pop things in the oven in our kitchen with notice that morning.

+ there’s a list of food trucks and takeaways in the room folder so you can grab something on the go. From the usual fish and chips to squat lobster butties in Elgol, to fabulous Indian takeout in Staffin. Our favourite pizza place LAS does great takeaway – as do several other places (shout out to Pizza in the Skye). Here we all are at the beginning of the season celebrating our friendship.

+ if you have the capacity and commitment you could fill yourself up at breakfast and not need to eat again until supper time

So you’ll never need to go hungry in Skye, whether you’re a freestyler, a last minute Liusaidh, or someone whose Google calendar is overflowing with events. Just a little forward planning will work wonders. And after all, you have the planniest planner on your team. Next blog will be about Inverness. Who knows when tho…..

The ETA -what you need to know when coming to (or through) the UK

January 29, 2025 by katie 2 Comments

A new e-document is now required to enter the UK from countries outside Europe. This will be extended to all international travellers from April 2nd of this year. It includes landside transit passengers –but not airside transit passengers.

If you’re not sure if you need one or not you can check here

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/check-when-you-can-get-an-electronic-travel-authorisation-eta

Then the government website will take you through what you have to do. If you’re staying with us and you’re having any problems just drop me an email at katieheron1@icloud.com and we’ll see if we can work through it together. It is indeed a vexing piece of red tape but we won’t let it spoil your holiday.

So here are some lovely pictures of the area around our little hotel to remind you why it’s worth a bit more effort to sort it all out.

In search of your heritage – family, clans, tartan and all that.

January 20, 2025 by katie 3 Comments

Many of our guests have a primary or secondary agenda when coming to Skye; to explore their family heritage. It’s a sensitive topic so I’m not going to address the ‘are you Scottish?’ question here. but I am going to offer suggestions as to how to go about getting the most out of your visit if it’s family you’re looking for.

Before you come: do as much reading as you can. General Highland history, biographies of anyone in your family’s past who might have been noteworthy, books about castles, clearances, clans and chiefs. It will definitely broaden your knowledge and possibly dispel some tales your granny told you. If you have evidence like birth certificates, emigration documents and the like, pack them. Make an appointment to visit the Skye & Lochalsh Archive Centre in Portree. If it’s family who left Skye within living memory then join the Skye & Lochalsh Memories facebook group and see if anyone can fill in missing details for you.

People outwith Scotland often ask on travel forums about kilts and whether they should wear theirs. I’m very much in the wear what you want camp but there’s a few things to bear in mind.

Most Scottish people wear kilts at weddings, other ceilidh events and to the football/rugby (with a team shirt and boots). It’s possible you might get mistaken for a Rabbies’ tour guide in your kilt but take it on the chin and you’ll be grand.
There is a correct length to wear your kilt.
There are lots of surnames without tartans whatever the tartan selling websites will tell you.
If you’re going to buy a good quality kilt you will have to spend. There are outfitters in Inverness, I suggest you visit two or three to see which you prefer if you’re buying ‘off the peg’. The staff in the ones we have visited are, without exception, incredibly helpful.
If you want a bespoke kilt, (or other beautiful tartan creations), we recommend the incredible Leona aka Kiltquine, based in Carbost. You’ll need to make appointments and chat to her beforehand but the end result will be something to last a lifetime. Check out her work on Facebook and Instagram.

The word clan comes from the Gaelic word for children (clann). This was the main system of government in Scotland from the 12th century to the crushing of the Jacobite rebellion in 1746 and the proceeding years. The best book I have read on this topic is The Highland Clans by Alistair Moffat. I’m looking forward to reading his following book – War Paths. If you’re looking to understand the big picture of family history this would be a good place to start.

By far the majority of guests who come to stay with us looking for family are linked to the MacDonalds or the MacLeods. The history between these clans is brutal and violent. The recently named Fairy Pools was known as Coire na Creiche – Corry (hollow) of the spoils.

This refers to a battle between the MacLeods and MacDonalds where the rivers reportedly ran red with blood and tartan. If you’re in Skye and you get a chance to hear the super knowledgeable Catherine McPhee of the archive centre speak, 100% take it. The key word here is history – while everyone is aware of the sins of the fathers the current generations are just fine together.

The MacLeods.

If your family links are Macleod you should start your Skye journey at Dunvegan Castle, home of Hugh Magnus Macleod of MacLeod. Apart from the stunning gardens and imposing building inside are some notable heirlooms of the clan. The most important (I would say) is Am Bratach Sith, the Fairy Flag but there is also a medieval drinking cup and Rory Mor’s horn.

With careful planning you can meet up with hundreds of Clan MacLeods at the Gathering and Parliament. The next one is the first week of August 2026 and there is one every 4 years. There is a great gift shop and clanmacleod.org has an excellent selection of books and other merchandise.

A tragic place, Trumpan Church is where the MacLeods, performing their act of Sunday worship, were burned to death by Uist MacDonalds intent on revenge for the murder of their clansmen on Eigg. It’s a beautiful place for a walk, regardless of your reason for being there. The views across to the Outer Isles can be spectacular.

If you’re feeling energetic talk a walk up to Macleod’s Tables (Macleod’s Tables (Walkhighlands) Stunning views, great folklore and the prospect of a good meal in Dunvegan on your return.

The MacDonalds.

Armadale Castle in the south of the island should be your starting point if you’re looking for Clan Donald family history. Although the castle is no more than a small ruin it’s easy to stand on the lawn and imagine the original building coming under attack in 1690 from HMS Dumbarton in an attempt to make Sir Donald Macdonald of Sleat submit to the new government. There’s a great little museum in the grounds and the gardens are absolutely wonderful, reflecting Scottish aristocracy’s travels across the world and their curiosity about the flora of other continents. There is a café and an excellent gift shop.

We would recommend treating yourself to a meal at Kinloch Lodge, the home of Godfrey, Lord Macdonald of Macdonald, the 35th High Chief of Clan Donald and his wife Lady Clare. The hotel is now run by the fabulous Isabella and I can confidently say that the Sunday lunch is quite the best (and the best value) I have ever had. You’ll eat your meal under the distinctly disapproving gaze of MacDonalds down the ages whose portraits adorn the walls.

You then need to head North to Duntulm Castle which was the home of the MacDonalds until 1732. If you believe in ghosts then it’s worth looking into the stories about the castle. If not it’s worth the walk for the stunning views. Then head round to visit the grave of one of the most famous MacDonalds of all – Flora. I can recommend the book Pretty Young Rebel by Flora Fraser as a way to learn about this remarkable woman and her life. Her final resting place is in Kilmuir Cemetery in Hungladder – also the burial place of the MacArthurs, pipers for the MacDonalds of Duntulm.

So, whether you’re looking for direct family, distant ancestors or a period of history that has caught your imagination tread gently on the history, listen to the stories, educate yourself before you come and while you’re here. Listen to the people who know, be ready for the kilt banter. Accept that your definition of being ‘Scottish’ might not be same as someone else’s. You’ll find the most welcoming, helpful people you would ever want to meet and you’ll find it difficult to leave.

My father, Glaswegian Gavin Lambie, in 1918, sitting on a fake log in a sou’wester with, rather alarmingly, a shotgun.

Forget your troubles, c’mon get happy…

November 27, 2024 by katie 1 Comment

I’ve been anxious since I could think. If you’ve stayed with us, you almost certainly didn’t notice as I glide through breakfast like Margot Fonteyn in Converse. Yet I was an anxious child, an anxious teen, an anxious, diagnosed but untreated ADHD 20 something etc etc etc. So maybe, (you might think) hospitality is not the best choice for me at the butt-end of my 50s.

But oh how I love how the young people are accepting and understanding of their slayDHD, how people are talking about their worries, depression, neurodivergences… and it’s helped me understand how being me makes me ‘good at hospitality’ in some ways. I asked some of my anxious friends what they thought. Here’s part of our dialogue:

Martin: You tend to have thought of everything way before time if you are a worry type of person. This means you also usually have a plan B (and maybe even C and D) up your sleeve in case of either emergencies or changes of plan, because you have usually thought it to the nth degree.

Jennie: Guests generally get a great experience because you have thought of every detail so much xxx

Me: so long as you don’t actually walk into the door while carrying a pile of plates because your brain is thinking of 7 possibilities and ain’t got no time for coordinating. Hypothetically of course

Catherine: It’s conducive for great list making which as a typical Virgo I do of course wholeheartedly embrace.

I can confirm this. I have many many notebooks. Some even used halfway through…

Laura: The most positive example I can offer is that reality is invariably never ever as bad as the 4276 horrific scenarios you’ve played out in your head…….Most of all, please know that all of your feelings are valid and completely normal. Lots of love from your fellow worrywart.

I can also confirm this. When Covid came I went into automatic coping strategy, us anxious people had been ready for this all our lives.

Anxiety and over thinking can lead to clumsiness; always known (sometimes affectionately) as ‘One Plate Kate’ I never take risks carrying breakfast dishes recklessly. This leads to me clocking up my 10,000 steps over breakfast. It does also lead to mishaps. Here’s a picture of me at the Fairy Pools approximately 10 seconds before Johnny said ‘watch where you’re putting your feet’, I forgot what feet are supposed to do, let alone where I was supposed to be putting mine, and promptly fell over. It happens quite a bit, I’m used to it but it does alarm other people.

In my conversations with myself in the early hours I make decisions in answer to questions like ‘but what if this little guest is in the middle of toilet training while on holiday and loses a week of progress?’. Thank goodness one can order from Amazon at 3am.

Or ‘ I don’t like how many additives there are in brown sauce, I wonder if I can make my own’. Turns out you can. Next stop Nutella…

It means that after a couple of guests commented that the shower/loo pump in one of the rooms had begun to make a disturbance I ‘persuaded’ Johnny and Gary to completely reorganise the drainage so it didn’t do that any more (and I could sleep through the night without keeping one ear open for late night flushes). And it needed to be done straight away when we closed. Weather? What weather?

So actually me being me means I enjoy what I do so very much. And our reviews tell you that our guests love staying with us too. Also very much. Check us out on Google.

I’m currently researching books about MacDonalds and MacLeods to put in our rooms, looking at recipes for breakfast shots (like turmeric & ginger, not like vodka or tequila my friends) and getting VERY picky about 3d wallpaper which may or may not send my hugely tolerant and understanding husband over the edge.

Kermit doesn’t find it that easy being green, but green he is, and being green is one of the things that makes him Kermit. I feel the same about being anxious, now I just need to write a song for my anxious buddies and the people who live with us. You’re not alone.

In praise of a good breakfast

July 6, 2024 by katie Leave a Comment

“Breakfast is everything. The beginning, the first thing. It is the mouthful that is the commitment to a new day.” wrote A. A. Gill. In my opinion he’s not wrong. Some people are grab a coffee and a cigarette and head off types and that’s fine, whatever works for you. But almost all of our guests settle in to a hearty, light or baby bear style of breakfast to start their day of adventuring.

We like to think that our standard menu has lots of choice and can keep everyone happy. There’s a full Scottish (complete with Charlie Barley’s Stornoway black pudding of course). It’s not for the faint hearted but it’ll power you up. You can leave things out, substitute or add extras.

Or our veggie breakfast that even impressed haggis royalty Macsweens.

Our homemade bread is absolutely delicious and makes great soldiers to go with our dippy eggs. It has been a joy this year introducing guests from Germany to South Africa, Malaysia to Alaska to the phenomenon which is a good dippy egg.

We also have different specials on each day. Eggs Royale with Scottish cold smoked trout, poached eggs and perfect Hollandaise is a favourite. If we build it you will come.

We give a lot of thought to the little things. For example I make our own brown sauce. It takes forever, but the kitchen smells amazing and the results, I think, are worth it.

I also make granola, apple & cinnamon sauce for your porridge and the compotes to go with the yoghurt. Johnny makes the bread but I put it in the toaster so it’s a joint effort I think. I’ve tried making tomato sauce but it still doesn’t have the edge over Heinz. If anyone has any recipes I’d love to try them.

There’s lots more to our breakfast menu, and we will absolutely try to source anything you specifically ask for (in advance if at all possible – we’re a long way from the shops). We’ve a request for princess pancakes for September, which I’m very excited about. We take food allergies very seriously, we have a separate toaster for our gluten free toast to prevent cross contamination and have lots of different gf elements to breakfast.

Breakfast is one of the times we get to chat. Where I can give you tips on which walks will be quiet, which coffee shops to avoid and what cracking music is on my morning playlist (currently mostly The Chair, I love a great hurdy-gurdy). Whether you’re a diet coke, several slices of toast and you’re off type, or a juice, porridge, full Scottish and two pots of tea while sharing the craic person, we’ve got you.

A pre trip reading list. Suggestions Part2 – Scottish history.

April 19, 2024 by katie Leave a Comment

The history of Scotland is hugely complex and threads into the present like a trendy crochet pattern. It is impossible to cover even the key events in our past in a book selection so I have just picked three that I have read, enjoyed and learned from. If you have any suggestions of others for me that would be amazing, just leave them in the comments.

Before Scotland: a Prehistory. I read this on my Kindle and it really kept my attention. I’m not very good at Kindle reading and tend to abandon books a way through but this one is different. It’s really well written and includes geological as well as human history. It didn’t feel like a history book if that makes sense.

I hadn’t really thought about prehistory since primary school until we went to Skara Brae in Orkney last year. It’s a stunning site but the thing that still stays with me was the stone dressers in the dwellings where people would display their precious things. It was this that prompted me to read Alistair Moffat’s book – to give me some context on such universal house decorating. There’s also wider information on world events happening concurrently with Scotland (or what would become Scotland)’s development.

On the blurb of the cover of The Scottish Enlightenment by Arthur Herman Irvine Welsh says Every Scot should read it. Scotland now has the lively, provocative and positive history it deserves.

He’s not wrong (he seldom is). My copy has a very dense text and I still hoovered it up. Herman’s writing is really clear and he deals with complex political and cultural issues in a very readable way. I first heard about ‘the Scottish miracle’ in an exceptionally inaccessible podcast about economics. It interested me enough to find this book and I’m so glad I did. You need to commit chunks of time to reading it, it’s not a dipper. It gives context for those abroad with Scottish heritage, so if you’re coming here to feel closer to your family roots then this is definitely the book for you.

It’s a book written from a certain premise but Herman backs up his ideas with impressive evidence. 100% recommend.

D*mn Rebel B*tches (careful asterisks just in case) by Maggie Craig is a fantastic book. Focussing on the stories of the women caught up in the events of ’45-46. The author uses letters and original papers to bring to life a largely undocumented area of a very well documented time. It has all sorts of details in that were totally new to me and I really enjoyed Maggie Craig’s style. She also writes fiction so her writing flows beautifully and keeps you engaged throughout. Again this book is not a dipper – the chapters aren’t in a linear order so you need to concentrate. A reminder that it’s not just about Flora Macdonald, but those whose names have been left aside, those who have become nameless and those who should have had their names in all the books about this time. As an aside, the book does assume that you already have some knowledge about the rebellion, so come to it after maybe reading Jacqueline Riding’s excellent Jacobites: a new history of the ’45 rebellion.

There are some terrible books out there – I won’t name and shame them here but you’ll work out which they are quite quickly. Just comment if you’d like me to give you a low down! Historians write the best history books, just saying :)

Visiting the Fairy Pools.

February 21, 2024 by katie 3 Comments

The Fairy Pools…on a lot of people’s bucket lists (a term I’m not very keen on, but hey ho) and one of the most photographed places in Scotland. So, is it worth going? Will you be surrounded by other people? Will you be disappointed? Let your Aunt Katie give you the low down.

Basics: The Fairy Pools are situated on the road to Glen Brittle about 8 miles away from the Taigh Ailean Hotel. They are a series of waterfalls and pools in the foothills of the Cuillin. In recent years a car park, toilets and a bridge over the first river crossing have been added to cater for the increase in visitors and make at least the first part of the walk accessible.

Getting the most out of your day. The Fairy Pools are very popular with visitors – so we recommend our guests get there as early as possible. Some opt for an early, light breakfast (we offer tea, toast, cereal etc as early as you wish – served by a cheery, maybe bleary, me), some take a packed lunch, some head off with the sunrise and are back for a full Scottish by 8:30. The days are long in summer so an early start means early. Another option is to visit at the end of your day, after dinner at the Old Inn maybe.

Parking. Currently the charge is £6 which can be paid card or cash. This might seem a lot but it goes towards the upkeep and development of the area. You absolutely do not want to know what parts of the trail was like before the public loos were put in. Some of the proceeds also go to supporting the Minginsh community – subsidising senior citizen lunch club, helping people who are struggling to buy food etc. So, just by parking you are part of something important – thankyou.

You’ll need a basic level of fitness. My fitness is pretty basic and I can do the whole walk. But I am shattered at the end and the slope back up to the car park is almost enough to end me. The dog used to be able to manage but it’s too much for his chunky, stumpy 12 year old self now so we just do the first part. The walk is dog friendly but if they’re divers or ‘close to the edgers’ you should probably keep them on a lead.

Quite a lot of people “do” the Fairy Pools as part of a day whizz about Skye. You’ll see a lot of people taking photographs of the first couple of pools then hotfooting it back to their tour bus to zoom off to do the same thing at Sligachan Bridge. If that’s all you have time for then make sure you get the best pictures! You’ll find the further you walk along the path the less people you see. The full circular walk is 5 miles, fairly easy although quite boggy in places. If you have two cars you could park one at Sligachan Hotel, drive you all round to the Fairy Pools then walk back across to the pub rather than complete the circular walk. It’s rather uneven at times so good walking shoes/boots are important. I have seen people in flip flops or wellies but that’s just asking for a twisted ankle or worse. The clearest guidance for the walk can be found at Fairy Pools and Coire na Creiche (Walkhighlands) Obviously you can just set off and turn back whenever time or fitness requires.

It can be midgetastic so take your Smidge with you. Midges are rubbish insects really. They don’t like wind, heat, cold or rain. But they do love a damp, warm morning or evening and a bit of standing water. They’re usually about from late April to mid September so be prepared.

The pools are a popular spot for wild swimming (what we used to call swimming in the old days). The environmental issues associated with this are for another day I think. The waters are gloriously clear, astonishingly cold and highly instagrammable. But they can also be tragically dangerous so ….. well ….. be sensible. Make sure you have towels and warm clothes ready and maybe a flask of something hot because the mountain waters will chill you to the core. I’d also suggest you have your costume/trunks on before you set off as there aren’t really any changing rocks for your modesty.

So, to sum up. The Fairy Pools are beautiful and worth a visit – but plan your day carefully to get the best experience. Wear the right clothes and bring the right accessories. Are there other places in Skye just as lovely if not more so? With quieter swimming spots and splendid views? Absolutely – I’ll tell you about them at breakfast.

What to do if the Jacobite Train isn’t running (and that makes you sad)

January 6, 2024 by katie 3 Comments

Many of our guests have a trip to Mallaig and back to Fort William on the Jacobite Steam Train as part of their Scottish adventure. The Glenfinnan Viaduct gives the most extraordinary views (both ways – check the crowds taking photographs from the carpark) making this one of the most popular visitor attractions in Scotland. People might be Harry Potter fans, steam train fans, Insta afficionados or just after an iconic experience. However, West Coast Railways, the company that runs the Jacobite Train has been having issues with the safety regulator. There have been numerous extensions to their deadline but the rumours are that it might not run this year. I can’t advise you on whether you should risk it now and book tickets but I’m going to offer you suggestions just in case.

First is to take the regular train from Fort William to Mallaig. It’s the same journey at a fraction of the price. It’s not anywhere near as fancy but if it’s the views you’re after they are the same. Just make sure you sit on the side looking out the window onto the view. Take a fancy picnic and make a day of it. If you’re all Harry Potter fans put your house scarves on, buy some Bertie Bott Every Flavour Beans from Amazon and you’re grand to go. Don’t worry what anyone else thinks -just live your best life.

Drive to Mallaig. The Road to the Isles is gorgeous. If you love history then stop off at Glenfinnan village, where in 1745 Prince Charles Edward Stuart called for local clansmen to assemble to support his claim to the throne. There is a visitors’ centre, run by the National Trust for Scotland with a great café, shop and information display. You can climb to the top of the monument built to the clansmen who fought and died for the Stuart cause. Whatever your thoughts on this it’s a moving experience. The Dining Car, a converted 1950s railway carriage serves great lunches too.

If you have time then taking a Loch Shiel Cruise is a wonderful way to see more of the area, one of the last true wildernesses in the UK. I’d suggest you book it online first.

When you get to Mallaig there are absolutely banging places to eat. Last time we were there I ordered a prawn sandwich for breakfast (yes I KNOW but it’s blimmin Mallaig people) and they peeled the prawns in front of me. For a sandwich! We recommend The Cabin for extraordinary seafood, the Cornerstone for a most excellent meal (book ahead though) and The Bakehouse for a great lunch and a pizza. But there are loads of other fabulous places.

If you need the Harry Potter vibe and the lack of steam train breaks your heart then be committed. Head to Eilean na Moine in a corner of Loch Eilt, which became Dumbledore’s final resting place in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. There’s a lot of digital magic going on, so it won’t look quite like the film, but it’s the place. It’s midgetastic in the summer so take your Smidge.

So you might book the train and hope for the best, or not book it in case you lose your money. But at least this gives you a Plan B, an excellent Plan B if I say so myself.

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